Sew: Vogue 8921 (aka the Frocktails dress)

For a long time I wasn't sure what I was going to make for Frocktails. But thanks to the powers of Instagram I was obsessed with Vogue 8921 after I saw Kat's post. Kat was extremely kind to gift me her pattern as she'd bought a size too large. Thanks Kat! 

The fabric I chose was a glittery mesh fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics. I bought it with no plans. I just I thought it would be a fun stash fabric. It didn't even make it to the stash. Thankfully, as I don't have any room in the stash at the moment! 

The pattern is good and I would like to make it again in a slinkier knit. I'd also like to make it with the crossover front. It was fun to wear but it's not really my style. I don't usually wear long sleeves. Or glittery knits. 

The biggest issue I had was the shapelessness of the waist. I wasn't planning on wearing it with a belt but it didn't really look any good without some sort of waist definition. I tried sewing elastic in to the waist without success. A belt was the easiest solution. 

Project Details
Pattern: Vogue 8921, size 16
Fabric: Glitzy sparkle mesh from Rathdowne Fabrics
Alterations: 4cm sway back adjustment, fully lined with slinky black knit (also from Rathdowne), elastic waist
See Also: Erica Bunker | Kathy Sews | Sew Manju

All in all it was a fun project for an excellent night. Not sure it will be worn again as is. I might shorten it to just below the knee and possibly shorten the sleeves to 3/4.

Sew: Kwik Sew 3416 Swimmers

Mary over at Idle Fancy had a great discussion going recently on sewing, blogging, plus sizes and body image. I used to have great issues with my body image. I've always been taller and bigger than most girls, now women, around me. I used to struggle with this greatly. Shopping was a nightmare and enough to send me home in tears. Over the last few years, I've come a long way in accepting my body for what it is and most importantly, for what it can do. Looking back, a major turning point was starting to blog about my sewing. There's something about the sewing blogging community that is supportive, encouraging and ever so accepting of women (and men) of all shapes and sizes.  For that, I thank you all. 

Two years ago I never would have considered showing anyone photos of myself in a swimsuit. And here I am, showing you my latest swimsuit. Actually on my body!! 

There's something about a simple black swimsuit. Some would call it boring, but I think they are stylish, practical and oh so classic. I used Kwik Sew 3416, now out of print, and a matte black lycra from Rathdowne Remnants. Thanks must go to my Mum finding me a copy of this great basic pattern. 

The only alteration I made was to lengthen the body by 2.5cm. I lined the whole suit with a black mesh swimsuit lining. The straps were made as per the pattern and aren't really strong enough to support the weight of the suit, especially when wet. I will go back and re-do them to include elastic. Next time I will reduce the elastic length in the top back by 5cm. It is a touch too loose.

Project Details
Pattern: Kwik Sew 3416, view B, size L
Fabric: Black matte swimsuit lycra and mesh lining from Rathdowne Remnants
Alterations: Lengthened body by 2.5cm

I really like Kwik Sew swimsuit patterns. They do such simple but classic styles.

I have enough of this black matte lycra to make another suit. I'm thinking another bombshell swimsuit with the halter top. I also have a piece of the beach print swimsuit fabric from Tessuti which I think will be perfect in this simple style of swimsuit. I'm hoping to make it up before the end of summer.

L x

Sew: Colette Patterns Anise Jacket

It. Is. DONE!!

My beautiful fuchsia Anise jacket. I really enjoyed making this jacket. Nothing in this jacket is particularly difficult, it simply takes a long time. I broke it up in to manageable tasks and put it aside when I was lacking the mental strength. I didn't want to stuff it up by sewing when extremely tired or distracted so I made a few simple projects throughout the duration of this jacket construction.

I started with a calico. I know!! How unlike me to actually test a garment. I did cheat and simply used the underlining calico for the jacket body. I automatically did a sway back adjustment, removing 3cm total from the centre back neckline. This proved to be perfect, so I went ahead and made the jacket.

This jacket included many firsts for me. Bound buttonholes, welt pockets, collar plus under collar and underlining. These were all remarkably easy compared to what I thought. I'd psyched myself up and was pleasantly surprised how simple they were. I do like a bit of measuring and ruling. It's the nerd in me.

I lengthened the jacket by 5cm so my shirt wouldn't show as much. I did try 10cm at first but that was too much. The front of the jacket is slightly shorter than back. I didn't notice this until it was too late. If there is a next time, I'll fix that.

I've mentioned before that I bought the lining before the main fabric. I loved the print and knew I wanted a pink Anise jacket. It turned out to be the perfect match. I love the contrast. Unfortunately the lining silk liked to snag despite many new needles.

Project Details
Pattern: Anise Jacket by Colette Patterns, size 14
Fabric: Fuchsia wool blend boucle from Rathdowne Fabrics
Lining: Silk print from The Remnant Warehouse
Alterations: Lengthened by 5cm, sway back adjustment following instructions in the Anise Companion, used one shoulder pad only
Notions: Plastic silver floral print 2.5cm buttons from Rathdowne Fabrics

I didn't use all of the main fabric that the pattern suggested. I have almost a metre left, so if you're going to make this jacket, keep that in mind.

 

I quite like the look of the jacket open. I'm yet to wear it out in public so we'll see how I end up wearing it.

 

A few close ups for your inspection...

I'm ridiculously pleased with myself for making this jacket. I really enjoyed the challenge and taking my time. I should try slowing down more often!!

So, what do you think of my fuchsia jacket??

L x

Sew: Vogue 1314 in Charcoal Merino Knit

 

 

The last Vogue 1314 in my trilogy. For now at least, until I find some more fabric!! I love them. Super quick. Flattering. Knit. What more could a girl want?!

 



 

This is such a versatile pattern. I've made three dresses in three weeks using the same pattern with different types of fabric to achieve three completely different looks. This pattern is a serious contender against Vogue 1250!

 



 

 

This version is made with a merino knit from Rathdowne Fabrics. It was bought last winter for a Renfrew top but winter was over before I could get around to it. After the success of the floral Vogue 1314, I shopped my stash and found this. Perfect.

 

 



 

Again, I didn't line this dress. I wanted to as the fabric is quite thin but I didn't have enough lining in my stash and didn't want to go to the fabric store. So I opted to wear a stretch shift underneath instead.

Project Details
Pattern: Vogue 1314, size 16
Fabric: Charcoal merino knit from Rathdowne Fabrics
Alterations: Sway back adjustment, omitted lining

The perfect winter dress! I wore it out last night with my Cordova jacket for dinner with my sewing blogging buddies to Hellenic Republic (yum!!). Such a wonderful night with lovely ladies.

 

 

L x

Sew: Tessuti Anita Ponti Pants

I made the other pair of Anita Ponti Pants and I'm definitely going to have to get some really good quality ponti with a fabulous print now. These pants are super comfortable!! I wore the black pair to hospital on Friday when Mr H had his tonsils and adenoids removed. They were perfect for the hours spent sitting or lying with a 17kg child on top of you. The mothers out there will understand!

This ponti is from Rathdowne Fabrics. It doesn't have a lot of stretch and is quite thick. I bought some black bamboo knit to make a Tessuti Fave top to go with these pants. I think they'll be a match made in heaven.

See! Much better with ballet flats!

Project Details
Pattern: Tessuti Anita Ponti Pants, size 14
Fabric: Printed & textured ponti from Rathdowne Fabrics & Remnants
Alterations: Lengthened by 7.5cm

Next time I will add 2cm to the back rise as it dips down just a little at the back.

L x

Sew: Tessuti Anita Ponte Pants

Is it ponte or ponti?? I never know.

I made two pairs of these Anita pants on Friday in addition to catering for the Melbourne edition of Mr Sew Brunswick's birthday celebrations plus the usual kid wrangling and appointment attendance. They are so super quick and easy.

This pair are made from a piece of black ponti I picked up at Rathdowne Remnants when I noticed they had just got a huge shipment of ponti. I also got a charcoal and black printed piece which became the second pair. I'm hoping to wear them soon.

I'm not sure if they're entirely flattering on me but they sure are comfortable and I wore them all weekend around home and to do errands such as the market shopping. The photo shows me wearing them with ankle boots, but I do prefer the look of them with ballet flats instead. It was just too cold to bare my ankles at that time in the morning!!

I lengthened the leg by 7.5cm and might even add another 2.5cm next time. To avoid the dreaded muffin-top, I added an extra 5cm to the recommended elastic length. I really like how they skim the hip and sit quite high but not too granny-ish.  

I really want to make a funky printed pair in a good quality ponti. I'm hoping Tessuti get some more soon!!

 

 

Project Details

Pattern: Tessuti Anita Ponti Pants, size 14

Fabric: Black ponti from Rathdowne Fabrics

Alterations: Lengthened leg by 7.5cm, added an extra 5cm to elastic length 

 

L x

Sew: Tessuti Alexa T-top in Black Wool Jersey

 

As I pledged to wear all handmade items with the exception of jeans, cardigans & undergarments, I needed some new t-shirts. I already needed new t-shirts, and knew MMM13 was a good motivation to actually sew them. I cut out two t-shirts yesterday afternoon and sewed the black one last night. Such a quick and easy project. And such a wardrobe staple.

 

I made the size XL without any alterations. It is a pretty perfect fit. Next time I will add 5-10cm to the length. The sleeves are a little short but I do like them that way.

 

I picked up this wool jersey on my recent shopping trip with my mother in law. It is a nice sturdy weight. I was in Rathdowne yesterday morning and they still had some, plus quite a range of colours and weights.

Project Details
Pattern: Tessuti Alexa T-Top, long sleeve version, size XL
Fabric: Black Merino Wool Jersey from Rathdowne Fabrics

In other news, I got my haircut yesterday. To say I hate it would be an understatement. I know it's only hair and it will grow back. But it really annoys me that I went to the hairdresser with relatively good hair yesterday morning and walked out with a crazy odd style. Sigh.

L x

Sew: Floral Collette Dinnigan Cambie Dress

Another birthday party, another party dress!! Mr N turns 4 tomorrow so we held his birthday party this morning. It was all about Lightning McQueen.

For the occasion I made my first Sewaholic Cambie and used a prized piece of Collette Dinnigan cotton floral that I've been sitting on for a while waiting for the perfect project. A total match made in heaven. I love this dress. The fabric is gorgeous. It feels like good quality bed linen that has been washed a million times, soft and lovely. I used a white silk cotton lining from Tessuti which is my fave fabric to line summer dresses.

I took a chance and did a swayback adjustment without a toile. Every dress I've made in the last 6 months has required this alteration and all my old dresses probably should have had this alteration. I removed a 1.5cm fold (3cm total) from above and below the waistband. To re-align the grainline I removed 1.5cm from the centre back (again 3cm total), which removes the back necline gape issue. I was spot on with this alteration.

The colours of the dress are lovely and soft without being pastel. Here we are "controlling" pass the parcel with a bunch of 4 year olds. It's a good photo of the true colours of the dress.

Project Details
Pattern: Sewaholic Cambie Dress, View A
Fabric: Collette Dinnigan floral cotton from Rathdowne Fabrics, silk cotton lining from Tessuti
Alterations: Swayback adjustment (above & below waistband), size 14 bodice grading to size 16 waistband and skirt

I am so glad I jumped on to the Cambie bandwagon! I am also super glad that our Festive Season is now officially done and dusted for the year. December and January birthdays certainly take it out of you.

Check out the birthday cake I made!!

L x

Sew: New Look 6000

 

 

 

Not much to report about this dress. Except for the fact that black is really, really hard to photograph yourself...

I used the same black ponti knit from Rathdowne Fabrics as my Simplicity 2250 jacket and Vogue 8787 dress. I bought 4 metres for the two original projects but managed to squeeze an extra dress out of it as well.

Due to my fabric restriction, I used New Look 6000 without the pleats and opted for half length sleeves. I was going for a casual "t-shirt" shift dress, like the ponti knit dresses in Country Road, so chose a casual sleeve length and top stitched the hem and sleeves using a wide twin needle. I also lined the body of the dress for comfort and style.

Project Details
Pattern: New Look 6000
Fabric: Black ponti knit from Rathdowne Fabrics
Alterations: 4cm total sway back adjustment, graded pattern up to size 18, lengthened by 10cm, added lining (used smaller seams on lining fabric)

This is my second time using New Look 6000. It is a great basic pattern that I am sure I will use many more times. I do, however, need to move on from ponti knit for the time being. I have made 4 garments from ponti in the last 2 months and I have one more sitting on my sewing table...

Kids Clothes Week Challenge, here I come!!

L x

Sew: Vogue 8787

 

 

 

Item 3 of my work wardrobe overhaul is Vogue 8787 in a black ponti knit. This pattern was a complete impulse buy whilst I was searching for another pattern. There are very limited versions of this dress on the internet which made me quite suspicious. Nothing to worry about, I am really pleased with this make. Well, I should say I was very happy until I saw these photos... Lumpy bumpy!

The pattern is a Very Easy Vogue (which I think is a bit of a stretch) for a fully lined dress with two neckline variations and two skirt variations. This was my wearable muslin as I was planning on the cowl neckline in a blueberry ponti but wanted to check the fit first. I made two sway back adjustments, removing 2 cm from above and below the waistband. I re-straightened the grainline following this adjustment to remove approximately 2cm from each side of the back neckline. Most dresses gape at the back neckline on me. I made a size 20, removing an extra 1cm from the side seams and centre back seam. I will make a size 18 in future. I could also size the bodice down another side as well. It is slightly too big and bags a bit.

I recommend sewing the dress and lining as separate pieces and wait until all the fitting is done before putting them together. The pattern instructions have you making the lined bodice first and then the lined skirt before attaching them together.  I could have done a better job of the fitting but the bodice was all lined and sealed by the time I realised and there was no way I was unpicking it.

I have now decided on a peplum top and pencil skirt for the blueberry ponti so will have to find another fabric for the cowl neck version. The ponti knit is probably a bit thick for this pattern. I quite like the idea of an emerald green or burnt orange crepe.

Project Details
Pattern: Very Easy Vogue 8787
Fabric: Black Ponti from Rathdowne Fabrics (same as my Simplicity 2250 jacket), lining from Clegs
Alterations: Sway back adjustment, lengthened by 10cm, removed excess from back neckline

So, what do you think? A winner or a loser?

On another topic, what do you use for managing your photos and loading them on to your blog? I'm having trouble with the quality of the images I load. Any suggestions? Tips or programs I should use?

L x

Sew: Simplicity 2250 Jacket

Hello, my name is Leith and I have cardigan obsessive disorder... I wear cardigans all the time. I even wear them to bed. Cardigan was in Mr N's first 50 words. I love cardigans!

I am attempting to revamp my work wardrobe. Moving away from cardigans with everything and more into short cropped jackets with shift dresses. I was having coffee with Rachel one day when she told me she bought some black ponti knit for a jacket, Simplicity 2250. Light bulb moment! I instantly thought of binding the seams and cuffs with polkadots.

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 2250, Jacket

Fabric: Black Lightweight Ponti Knit from Rathdowne Fabrics

Notions: 1cm thick shoulder pads, bias binding

Alterations: Cut size 20, took extra 1cm off seams (next time size 18), shaped side seams in at waist by another 1cm.

I'm pretty pleased with this make. It will get good wear at work. I'd like to make this again in a lightweight denim for a casual jacket to wear with summer dresses. What do you think?

Does anyone know of a short casual blazer pattern? Preferably lined and approximately hip length?

On another note, I am super excited about tomorrow's Sewist's Meet Up!! Can't wait to meet you all. The only problem is, what to wear?!

L x