Sew: Liesl + Co Girl Friday Culottes

I finally jumped on the culotte bandwagon! And I'm loving them. I bought this fabric for culottes way back in October from Tessuti Melbourne. I was planning on modifying a Vogue pattern but after muslining the pattern I realised there was way too much work involved so I put them aside. The Girl Friday culottes then started appearing all over the world of sewing blogs. The pattern wasn't exactly what I had in my mind but it was close enough so I forged ahead. 

The pattern comes together easily and is well drafted. The sizing is accurately described in the finished waist measurements provided but it is tricky to know what size you need exactly until the waistband is on. I discovered after the first wear that I like them to sit snugly, quite high on my waist. The weight of the fabric pulls the front of the waistband down if it is not firm.  I knew it was going to bug me and I wouldn't wear them if I didn't fix them straight away. So after the first wear I dutifully unpicked the front waistband and took an extra 2.5cm out of each side pleat (not the centre front pleat). I then removed 5cm from the waistband and reattached it. Unfortunately my finish was perfect on the first go and not-so-perfect on the second go, but I was not unpicking for a second time. 

The fabric is (I think) a linen/cotton/rayon blend from Tessuti Melbourne. One side is a real black that is shiny and smooth. The other side has a slight linen texture and looks like washed silk. It is washed out black colour. I chose the "washed silk" side as the outside. 

The pattern calls for a normal zipper to be inserted inside the left pocket. I don't care much for normal dress zips so I chose to use an invisible zip. I just followed the same general instructions but inserted the invisible zip instead. The other interesting part of the instructions was that the waistband is attached to the wrong side and then flipped to the right side and topstitched. No stitching in the ditch or hand stitching required!

Project Details

Pattern: Liesl + Co Girl Friday Culottes, size 18

Fabric: Linen/cotton/rayon blend from Tessuti Melbourne

Alterations: Removed 5cm from front waist band and pleats, used an invisible zipper

See also: Top Notch | La Sartora | Top Notch (pineapples!) | Fiona Makes

I'm really loving these culottes. I didn't think they would suit me or be very flattering but I think they do. They're extremely comfortable to wear and I even feel slightly trendy! Winning! I struggled to know what to wear with culottes so I purchased two tees from Country Road that go nicely and will see me through Summer. 

I'm not sure if I'll make another pair of these. There's only so many pairs of culottes a girl needs. I am pondering a more structured pair in a sturdy black wool suiting I got from Rathdowne for work. Or I'll stick to my original plan of a pair of Thurlows. I would make the waistband wider if I make these culottes again. I have noticed that the new Vogue patterns has a culottes pattern and I do like the look of those.

So, tell me, what do you think of culottes? Have you jumped on the #teamculottes bandwagon??

L x

Sew: Tessuti Laura Pant in Denim

I sewed something!! These were meant to be made out of cobalt blue linen but I accidentally bought the wrong amount. I was determined to sew something so I dug through my stash and found this length of denim left over from my crazy kid shorts and pants sewing days. I love this denim.

I've mentioned before that the basic items of our wardrobes are the hardest to photograph and blog. These were no exception. Rachel tried to take photos today at the park but it was super sunny. These are the best we could do.

There's nothing much to report about this make. They came together beautifully and quickly. I will increase the back rise by 1.5cm next time and possibly lengthen them by 7.5cm. I noticed in the pattern photos that they're designed to hit the ankle and mine clearly don't. However, I don't mind them this length.

They are a much needed pair of basic pants! I did go back and buy more cobalt blue linen. So watch out for another pair of Laura pants soon!

Project Details
Pattern: Tessuti Laura Pant, size XL
Fabric: Texan Light Weight Denim from Kelani Fabrics
Alterations: None

PS. I noticed that this Country Road top is very much like the new Tessuti Alice top pattern. I'm stoked that I can now replicate my fave summer top! I plan to dive in to my stash again this weekend...

Sew: Tessuti Suzy Pants

I started making these pants about 6 months ago. I almost finished them in one afternoon but the moment of truth came when I went to try them on and the blasted things barely fitted over my hips. Once over my hips, they were too loose on my waist. So I threw them in the too hard basket (with my little black jacket) and carried on with something else. Attention to detail is my strong point at work only... 

This past Sunday I had two kids birthday parties to attend and a pair of comfy pants were required if I was going to get through the day with my sanity. The only problem is that I don't have many comfy pants, or many pants at all, in my wardrobe. My beloved Anita Ponti Pants were in the wash. I remembered my discarded Suzy pants and whipped them out. A quick unpick of the waistband and a release of one of the pleats enabled me to save them and get them over my hips. Once up, they are still too baggy around the waist but I don't plan on wearing them with a fitted top and they won't fall down. I may go back and attach a thin piece of elastic to the front waist band, just to bring it in a bit. Or I may not... 

Project Details
Pattern: Tessuti Suzy Pants, size L
Fabric: Silk cotton blend fabric from Tessuti
Alterations: Omitted pockets, stitched in 5cm wide elastic to back waist band only
Also wearing: Tiny Pocket Tank | Simplicity 2250 Jacket
See also: Boo Dogg & Me | True Bias | Sew Amy Sew

I'm actually quite happy with these pants and I will wear them. I've got the Style Arc Lola Pant in a silk twill cut out and ready to go. I just need some time...

L x

Sew: Tessuti Anita Ponti Pants

 
These pants were almost in the "too boring to blog" category but I wanted to show you the adjustment I did on them to make them more wearable for me.

I made this pattern up twice last winter, in black and a charcoal print, with mixed results. They were extremely comfortable but not so flattering. Pants that bordered on being leggings were not the best choice for me. I still wear the black ones around home and even took them camping. The grey ones were donated.

I'm lucky to wear my weight fairly evenly distributed across my body. I do carry weight on my hips and I have large calves. Shopping for knee high boots is a nightmare!! I wanted the comfort and ease of wear of these ponti pants but I wanted them to be more flattering and less tight from the hips down. On one of my internet perusing sessions I discovered this tutorial on the Colette website on how to adjust a pattern for large legs. It was a light bulb moment!

So I hacked in to my Anita ponti pants pattern and added about 1cm to each side of the leg from the crotch line down. It worked a treat. I do have a bit of bagging around my knee but I think this is from the divot created where my large-ish thighs meet my large large carves. Something I'll have to live with. The photos above show where the fabric has also bagged a bit from wearing them two days in a row.

Project Details
Pattern: Tessuti Anita Ponti Pants, size 14
Fabric: Four way stretch black ponti from Clegs Brunswick
Alterations: Lengthened 10cm, raised back rise by 2.5cm, large leg adjustment 1cm each side

I wore them to work yesterday with my digital floral peplum top. It was like secretly wearing tracksuit pants all day!!

L x

Sew: Simplicity 4237 Linen Pants

These lovely linen pants are another un-posted Sewjourn make. I have more un-posted makes, including a pair of denim Colette Patterns Juniper pants. I made those before we went to America over 6 months ago...

Moving on, I haven't actually worn these linen pants until this week. The Como linen from Tessuti is lovely and soft but not too thin. I've used this pattern several times and have now forgotten what the original pattern looked like. It is a great starting point. I really like the wide waist band which sits flat under clothes.

To prevent the inevitable linen bagging I stitched and ironed fusible stay tape into all the waist band seams. I was a bit concerned I'd gone overboard as when I tried them on at Sewjourn they were very firm! It took about 10 minutes of me wearing them around for the linen to relax. They are now perfectly relaxed and casual.

In previous versions, and in most pants, I get a weird excess of fabric in my groin area. When I did the Tessuti pant fitting course last year, Vanessa told me it had nothing to do with my crotch but everything to do with my centre front seam. I needed to add an extra 0.5cm to that seam to allow the fabric to skim over my "protruding" stomach and fall nicely over my groin. It worked a treat! I'd been trying to remove the fabric from that area and had never thought about adding fabric to another area to fix the problem.

I'm looking up at the bees in the trees in this photo but it is a good photo to show the fit across the back and across my butt. The length looks a bit long but when on flat ground (not grass that is in desperate need of a mow) it skims my heel. Lara helped me hem these. Thanks Lara!

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 4237 (OOP), view D, size 18
Fabric: Como Storm Linen from Tessuti Melbourne

I have another pair of these in black linen. It is extremely difficult to photograph plain black pants. I'm just glad I got these up on the blog!

Happy Weekend everyone!!

L x

Sew: Tessuti Anita Ponte Pants

Is it ponte or ponti?? I never know.

I made two pairs of these Anita pants on Friday in addition to catering for the Melbourne edition of Mr Sew Brunswick's birthday celebrations plus the usual kid wrangling and appointment attendance. They are so super quick and easy.

This pair are made from a piece of black ponti I picked up at Rathdowne Remnants when I noticed they had just got a huge shipment of ponti. I also got a charcoal and black printed piece which became the second pair. I'm hoping to wear them soon.

I'm not sure if they're entirely flattering on me but they sure are comfortable and I wore them all weekend around home and to do errands such as the market shopping. The photo shows me wearing them with ankle boots, but I do prefer the look of them with ballet flats instead. It was just too cold to bare my ankles at that time in the morning!!

I lengthened the leg by 7.5cm and might even add another 2.5cm next time. To avoid the dreaded muffin-top, I added an extra 5cm to the recommended elastic length. I really like how they skim the hip and sit quite high but not too granny-ish.  

I really want to make a funky printed pair in a good quality ponti. I'm hoping Tessuti get some more soon!!

 

 

Project Details

Pattern: Tessuti Anita Ponti Pants, size 14

Fabric: Black ponti from Rathdowne Fabrics

Alterations: Lengthened leg by 7.5cm, added an extra 5cm to elastic length 

 

L x

MMM: Day 4

A morning out running errands, visiting Rathdowne Fabrics and getting my hair cut. Not sure if I like my new hair cut but thankfully hair grows back! I always hate my hair cut when it is new and then grow to like it when the style grows out a bit.

These are my new Clovers that I made using the adapted pattern following the Pant Fitting Class at Tessuti (way back in March). The crotch issue is improved but still there. I might just have to accept that I have a ditch between my thighs and hip. The waist fits really well. I can't seem to get good photos of these pants as the fabric is a cotton sateen and photographs terribly. The photos make me want to throw these pants in the bin! I'm still wearing them, we'll see how I feel about them later in the day. It might be time to move on from Clovers. We might not be a good match.

Outfit Details
Top: Snake print tank - made from Tessuti jersey pre-blogging
Pants: Colette Clovers in black cotton sateen (not blogged yet)
Other items: Black wool cardigan from Country Road, Walnut shoes and Dinosaur Designs jewellery.

L x

Sew: Orange Colette Clovers

 

 

The second item that I sewed before we left on holidays were a pair of bright orange Clovers. I really like the style and comfort of these slim fit pants. I've used this pattern a few times before and feel that I'm making good progress with the fit. I am determined to perfect it. I've even signed up for a pants fitting course through Tessuti. There will definitely be more Clovers in the future!

 

 

 

 

Project Details
Pattern: Colette Clover Pants
Fabric: Bright orange stretch cotton drill from The Fabric Store
Alterations: Size 14!!, straightened the hip curve, raised back rise by 1cm, inserted tear-away Vilene to waistband

Unfortunately, the fabric does bag out a bit with wear and I plan to unpick the zip and take the side seams in another 1.5cm and possibly also take the inseam in another 0.5cm, particularly through the hip area in an attempt to eliminate some of that crutch bagginess.

 



I used some left over Liberty Wiltshire for the waistband facing and inserted tear-away Vilene to stabilise the waist. This worked a charm.

Happy Sewing!

L x

Sew: Kid Pants

The weather is getting cooler and my 3 year old is growing exponentially (who wouldn't if they ate 3 weetbix for breakfast?!). He's also still going through a few pairs a day (please tell me this will stop soon?!). So I've been mass producing pants - navy cords and flannel pyjamas. I used fabric my stash that I bought for $2/metre at the end of last winter. I wish I'd bought more as I've run out and I think I still need to make him another 8 pairs...

Project Details - Cords
Pattern: Burda 9793
Fabric: Navy pinwale cord from Spotlight 
Alterations: Extended by 10cm

Project Details - Pyjamas
Pattern: Kwik Sew 3149
Fabric: Novelty flannel from Spotlight
Alterations: Extended by 10cm

L x

Renfrew Week - Day 4

Day 4 of OWOP!! Just a day at work, nothing exciting.

Once again, my black wool Renfrew but this time I wore it with a pair of charcoal Clovers.

I was going to get my photo taken with some Meerkats at work but didn't get around to it. So my lovely crabapple tree will have to do.

Off to finish my next Renfrew for OWOP day 5.

L x

Finished!! Colette Patterns Clover Pants

I am so very happy about these pants! I read reviews and googled pictures of them for months before finally embarking on making them. I was expecting them to be a lot of trouble but I was pleasantly surprised. I am wearing them with my Tiny Pocket Tank.

Project Details
Pattern: Colette Patterns Clover Pants
Fabric: Stretch Navy Cotton Drill from Tessuti Fabrics Melbourne
Notions: 10" invisible zip

Fitting Notes
From my muslin test run, I made a size 18 sizing down to size 16 during the fabric fit. I then straightened the centre front seam and made it more like a right angle (by about 1cm) to remove the bagginess I get in the crotch. I then raised the centre back by 1cm by adding tissue to the paper. When I cut my fashion fabric, it had more stretch so I took in the side seams by another 1cm. I got a lot of bubbling on my hips. You know the bit between your love handles and tops of your things? Where the dint is? So I straightened the hip curve to eliminate this. Worked like a charm!

I used the book Pants for Real People heavily during this make and strongly suggest buying this book if you want to understand fitting process of pants.

There is still a little bit of extra fabric in the crotch area but I think I can live with that. Any suggestions? Next up, a pair in charcoal herringbone wool suiting I picked up at The Fabric Store.

I finished the waistband facing with some lovely navy and white spot binding that I bought in Tokyo last year. Every time I put them on, I think of our lovely holiday. That makes me smile!

L x

 

Fitting Clovers

Once again, I seem to be a bit late to jump on the bandwagon. I have finally made up my muslin of the Clover Pants by Colette Patterns . To be honest I really didn't know if this style would suit me. I am a 18-20 in the Big 4 patterns or a good size 16 in RTW. However, I was pleasantly surprised with these.

The back of the pants look good. I will increase the back rise by about 1.5cm.

The front is ok but I do have a lot of excess fabric in the crotch area. Pants for Real People suggest a Flat Lower Belly Adjustment.

I did originally make up the muslin in the largest size 18 as I was inbetween sizes. I took it in an extra 1cm down the side seams and 0.5cm down the inseam, so I am a size 16 in this pattern.

The fabric I chose was a navy stretch cotton drill from Spotlight but I really don't think it has enough stretch. I can stand in these pants but sitting is a bit difficult... A new fabric is needed.

Changes needed:

• Increase back rise by 1.5cm
• Remove 1cm from front crotch seam (Flat Lower Tummy adjustment)
• Increase calf width by 1cm
• Size 16 not 18
• Select a fabric with more stretch (also a softer fabric)

I want to make the final pair in a black wool gabardine for work and a navy stretch cotton for casual wear.

L x