Sew: S2215 skirt (again)

Happy new year friends! I'm really looking forward to 2016 and what it holds. I love turning over a new leaf.

I know it's been months since I last posted but I'm back with a new work skirt. Yes, another Simplicity 2215. Why change when you're a winner?

I used a crepe from Tessuti Melbourne instead of a cotton sateen this time. Complete game changer! The different fabric changes the whole look of the skirt. This fabric is soft and swishy but with a bit of weight.

I made this skirt exactly the same size as all the other versions and it turned out about 7cm too big on the waist. No I have definitely not lost weight (quite the opposite actually) and I'd only just made another version a few weeks earlier. I can only attribute this to the fabric, even though it has no stretch. All my other versions have been cotton sateen. This is a much lighter crepe. Once I'd completely finished it, I realised it was too big and that I wouldn't wear it as is. Rachel suggested I insert some elastic in to the back waist band to bring it in. It worked a treat and actually makes for a very comfortable skirt.

Project Details
Pattern: Cynthia Rowley Simplicity 2215, view C, size 20
Fabric: Crepe from Tessuti Melbourne
Alterations: Lengthened by 10cm, inserted elastic in to the back waist band

As always, there will be more of these skirts. They are a perfect work skirt for me.

What's your perfect work skirt? Please do share, because I can't wear the same skirt every day!

Sew: Simplicity 2215 skirt

I am currently wearing this skirt. I thought if I don't blog it now, like right now, it will never make it to the blog.

My love for Simplicity 2215 is well documented. You can see my previous makes here and here. I also have an undocumented denim one. I made this skirt as per the pattern and just lengthened it by 7.5cm.

The sateen is really nice and crisp. It holds its shape and doesn't wrinkle much at all. The squares are actually blue and black which is a slight change from my standard black, charcoal and white work wardrobe. I would like to make a blue top to wear with this skirt. I'm wearing it with my black Mandy boat tee.

Project Details
Pattern: Cynthia Rowley Simplicity 2215, view C, size 20
Fabric: Cotton sateen from Tessuti Melbourne
Alterations: Lengthened by 7.5cm

L x

Sew: Simplicity 1366 top in Japanese Cotton

I'm back with another project that has sat 95% done for a few months, waiting for me to hem it. I accidentally scorched the fabric on the back while doing the neckline so it was sent to the naughty corner for a while. 

I made the same neckline alteration to this top as my stripey version. I lengthened the body by 10cm and left the sleeves as per the pattern. I prefer the sleeves slightly shorter like the stripe top so will shorten the sleeves in future makes. They sit right at the elbow which is a bit awkward.

The fabric was from Tessuti Melbourne way back in February. It is a beautiful soft waffle cotton that I couldn't go past.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 1366, size 18
Fabric: Japanese waffle cotton from Tessuti Melbourne
Alterations: Removed 3 cm from both the front and back neckline, lengthened body by 10cm.
See Also: Sew Brunswick #1 | Ada Spragg | Lily Sage & Co | Bedlam + Bird

There's one more S1366 top hanging somewhere around waiting for a neckline binding.

L x

Sew: Simplicity 1366 Stripe Top

This top has been a long time coming but I finally got my act together and hemmed it on Saturday afternoon. About 5 minutes after we were due to leave for a birthday party...

I made my first Simplicity 1366 a few months ago in a floral sateen and it has terrible neck gape issues. I ended up putting a pleat in the back neckline but it's not ideal and I don't wear it. This neck gape issue is not a new problem for me but I'm a slow learner. Solving this problem on this style of top was a bit tricky as I had no bust dart to slash and spread to allow me to fold out the excess from the neckline. I played around with the paper pattern and ended up folding out 3cm from the neckline (both front and back) by running the fold all the way from the neckline to the corner of the side seam and hem. This worked a treat!

The fabric is a thick knit from Gardams in Brisbane that I bought at Christmas. It was bought for a skirt but the recovery is not good so it was re-directed to a top. The neckline binding is a strip of white jersey from the stash.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 1366, size 18
Fabric; Striped double knit from Gardams
Alterations: Removed 3cm from both front and back neckline, lengthened body by 5cm, shortened sleeves by 2.5cm.
See Also: Ernest Flagg | Blogless Anna | Mixed Emotions | Groovy Baby & Mama

I have a few more of these tops on the go. So you might see them on the blog in the next year or so!

Sew: Simplicity 1653

You know you're on to a good thing when you wear a dress for the first time and you get heaps of compliments. Winning!

The pattern is one of the Amazing Fit range. I just whipped it together and didn't fit it very much. Once together, the sleeves were really baggy so I took the whole side seam in another 1cm. The dress fits very nicely and there is no gaping across the front. However, by the end of the day I felt that the sleeves were sliding off my shoulders ever so slightly. My bra straps never showed but I could feel the fabric sliding and I kept wanting to pull the sleeves back up.

I used fusible knit stay tape on the neckline before simply turning over and using a twin needle to stitch the neckline. I ignored the instructions.

The fabric is a beautiful printed jersey from Tessuti Fabrics. I don't think it's going to wash well so I will need to be careful when washing. I hope it doesn't pill like a few of my previous printed jersey makes. The fabric is very lightweight and drapey so I need to be careful not to tug it too tight across the wrap. I love the blue colour and the print. Blue is my favourite colour to wear but I don't sew with it very often. I really want to work on that!

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 1653 Amazing Fit Knit Dress, view B (with 3/4 sleeves), size 18
Fabric: Printed Jersey from Tessuti Fabrics Online (sold out)
Alterations: Took side seams in an extra 1cm, plus an extra 0.5cm in the underarm area
See Also: Sew & Style | The Pattern Hack | Barbara Jane Made

I have ordered some black viscose jersey from Tessuti and plan to make another version of this dress (or Simplicity 2369) for work. A black knit wrap dress will be a great basic work dress.

Who else loves a good faux wrap dress? What's your favourite pattern?

L x

Sew: Simplicity 4237 Linen Pants

These lovely linen pants are another un-posted Sewjourn make. I have more un-posted makes, including a pair of denim Colette Patterns Juniper pants. I made those before we went to America over 6 months ago...

Moving on, I haven't actually worn these linen pants until this week. The Como linen from Tessuti is lovely and soft but not too thin. I've used this pattern several times and have now forgotten what the original pattern looked like. It is a great starting point. I really like the wide waist band which sits flat under clothes.

To prevent the inevitable linen bagging I stitched and ironed fusible stay tape into all the waist band seams. I was a bit concerned I'd gone overboard as when I tried them on at Sewjourn they were very firm! It took about 10 minutes of me wearing them around for the linen to relax. They are now perfectly relaxed and casual.

In previous versions, and in most pants, I get a weird excess of fabric in my groin area. When I did the Tessuti pant fitting course last year, Vanessa told me it had nothing to do with my crotch but everything to do with my centre front seam. I needed to add an extra 0.5cm to that seam to allow the fabric to skim over my "protruding" stomach and fall nicely over my groin. It worked a treat! I'd been trying to remove the fabric from that area and had never thought about adding fabric to another area to fix the problem.

I'm looking up at the bees in the trees in this photo but it is a good photo to show the fit across the back and across my butt. The length looks a bit long but when on flat ground (not grass that is in desperate need of a mow) it skims my heel. Lara helped me hem these. Thanks Lara!

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 4237 (OOP), view D, size 18
Fabric: Como Storm Linen from Tessuti Melbourne

I have another pair of these in black linen. It is extremely difficult to photograph plain black pants. I'm just glad I got these up on the blog!

Happy Weekend everyone!!

L x

Sew: Simplicity 2444

 

Another kid's birthday party, another dress! I have summer babies and hence most of their friends are also summer babies. So from November to March we have birthday party after birthday party. We actually have two this weekend. So I whipped up a new dress!! Not that I don't have enough dresses in my wardrobe...

 

I do love a good summer dress. This is a great basic pattern with a few modifications I've learnt along the way. I folded out the excess in the front and back neckline. A total of four inches!! I simply slashed the darts to allow the excess to be folded out. Simple.

 I also used bias binding for the neckline (and armholes) instead of the recommended facing. Easy as.

This is one of the printed cottons I picked up in Sydney last weekend. It is beautiful and soft but probably a little too lightweight for this pattern. It doesn't hold up well to those front angle darts. We'll see how it goes.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 2444
Fabric: Printed cotton from The Remnant Warehouse
Alterations: Removed 2.5cm from front and back pattern piece using slash & spread method, lengthened by 2.5cm and substituted bias binding for neck facing.

I am contemplating making another of these dresses for work, in the black and white fabric I got last weekend. Or I might use Simplicity 1873, a Cynthia Rowley pattern instead...

L x

Sew: Floral Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank

 

I love this fabric. I loved it from the moment I set eyes on it in Tessuti. I made a beautiful dress out of it but it was short lived as it quickly became too big. The dress has sat in my sewing room scrunched up for well over a year waiting for a new lease of life. Thankfully the Tiny Pocket Tank came to the rescue!!

 

 

 

I simply cut the tank out of the skirt, placing the darts at the shoulder. I used purchased bias tape for the armholes and neckline.

 

I wore it yesterday with an unblogged Simplicity 2215 denim skirt. It was a bit of a colour explosion with a pink cardigan!!

Project Details - Tank
Pattern: Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank
Fabric: Floral cotton from Tessuti

Project Details - Skirt
Pattern: Simplicity 2215
Fabric: Lightweight denim from Kelani Fabrics

We'd better make that 91 garments this year...

L x

Sew: Simplicity 2215 Liberty Dress

 

 

Simplicity 2215, how I love thee?! I've made the skirt three times now so it was time for the dress version. I asked you all what to do with this Liberty way back in March. It was a choice between the Colette Peony dress and Simplicity 2215. The Simplicity won out.

 

 

 

Yet, it was almost not meant to be. I had great difficulty with the neckline gaping, both back and front, and was very tempted to cut the bodice off and turn it into a skirt. Wouldn't it be a great skirt with a red grosgrain ribbon as the waistband?!

 

 

Despite the temptation I persisted and make a few alterations to achieve the finished result. I inserted two small darts in the back neckline to remove the gaping. Thankfully Liberty prints are very forgiving. I couldn't use darts in the front so I asymmetrically overlapped the front by an extra 1cm at the top to remove the gaping. I then simply stitched the buttons on in a straight line. The bottom four buttons are non-functioning and stitched right through. The top button is also decorative with a snap to close the front. You need that to open so you can get your head out.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 2215 Dress
Fabric: Liberty Tatum Dark Blue from Shaukat
Alterations: Inserted two small darts in back neckline and overlapped front top by an extra 1cm.

I really need to sort out this alteration for back and front neckline gaping. I have noticed it a lot in dresses I made last year which have high necklines. Fit for Real People has no helpful suggestions. Any suggestions?

 

 

I'm really pleased with my new Liberty dress. I do love a bit of Liberty. I'm actually sewing a Liberty Lonsdale dress for Mr H's birthday party tomorrow. It is coming together superbly.

 

I'm off to bake a rainbow cake!! Wish me luck.

 

L x

 



Sew: Denim Simplicity 2451

This is Mr N's first blog photo. I think he did very well! He even captured some new Liberty hanging on the line. And a rubber ducky...

I made this skirt way back in early June but it was too tight for Melbourne layering. So it's been sitting patiently waiting for the weather to warm up enough so I can wear it without leggings and an under singlet.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 2451 View D
Fabric: Indy Dark Denim 6GSM Light Weight Denim from Kelani Fabrics

I have made this skirt previously but have since cut it up for my Freddie Vest as it wasn't a good fabric to pattern match. It's a great pattern but doesn't make an exceptionally versatile denim skirt as you have to tuck a shirt in to it. Next time I'm going to do a straight denim pencil skirt or even the new Grainline Moss miniskirt for a basic summer skirt.

All in all I'm pretty happy with my skirt. And my photographer!

L x

Sew: Denim Simplicity 2250 Jacket

 

After the success of my first Simplicity 2250 Jacket, I was keen to make another fast! I decided on a denim version to be worn casually with my many floral dresses and skirts. I pilfered some denim from the boys' stash and was on my merry way.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 2250
Fabric: Indy Dark Denim 6GSM Light Weight Denim from Kelani Fabrics
Alterations: Size 18, removed 2.5cm from centreback seam at neckline grading down to nothing at the middle back, bound seams with purple floral bias binding, inserted shoulder pads and sleeve heads

The last version is a little big all over but particularly across the top back, so I removed 2.5cm from the centre back. I also made a smaller size this time but didn't alter the seams for a more fitted shape. I wanted to keep this jacket casual and loose. I did try my hand at sleeve heads and am very pleased with the final result.

A great casual but classic style jacket for summer.

L x

Sew: Simplicity 2250 Jacket

Hello, my name is Leith and I have cardigan obsessive disorder... I wear cardigans all the time. I even wear them to bed. Cardigan was in Mr N's first 50 words. I love cardigans!

I am attempting to revamp my work wardrobe. Moving away from cardigans with everything and more into short cropped jackets with shift dresses. I was having coffee with Rachel one day when she told me she bought some black ponti knit for a jacket, Simplicity 2250. Light bulb moment! I instantly thought of binding the seams and cuffs with polkadots.

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 2250, Jacket

Fabric: Black Lightweight Ponti Knit from Rathdowne Fabrics

Notions: 1cm thick shoulder pads, bias binding

Alterations: Cut size 20, took extra 1cm off seams (next time size 18), shaped side seams in at waist by another 1cm.

I'm pretty pleased with this make. It will get good wear at work. I'd like to make this again in a lightweight denim for a casual jacket to wear with summer dresses. What do you think?

Does anyone know of a short casual blazer pattern? Preferably lined and approximately hip length?

On another note, I am super excited about tomorrow's Sewist's Meet Up!! Can't wait to meet you all. The only problem is, what to wear?!

L x

Sew: Abstract Simplicity 2215 Skirt

Let me introduce my third Simplicity 2215 skirt! I do love a full skirt and this pattern is fantastic. Super quick and easy but beautifully put together and finished. If you haven't tried this pattern, give it a go!

The fabric is a printed cotton sateen from Spotlight that was a complete impulse buy. You know how you have to wait FOREVER to be served at Spotlight, especially if you go on pension day?? Well, there was a huge pile of freshly unpacked abstract print cotton sateen right next to the counter. Two rolls accidentaly fell into my shopping basket...

My first version was a great hit and is in high rotation. The second version is yet to be blogged (or worn) but is made in a beautiful soft denim.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 2215 skirt
Fabric: Abstract Printed Cotton Sateen from Spotlight
Alterations: Added 10cm to length and used a 4cm hem at the front grading to a 2cm hem at back. I prefer adding 15cm to allow for a deep hem.

So I now have THREE versions of this skirt... Too many? Or is there potential for a few more??

L x