Sew: Colette Patterns Anise Jacket

It. Is. DONE!!

My beautiful fuchsia Anise jacket. I really enjoyed making this jacket. Nothing in this jacket is particularly difficult, it simply takes a long time. I broke it up in to manageable tasks and put it aside when I was lacking the mental strength. I didn't want to stuff it up by sewing when extremely tired or distracted so I made a few simple projects throughout the duration of this jacket construction.

I started with a calico. I know!! How unlike me to actually test a garment. I did cheat and simply used the underlining calico for the jacket body. I automatically did a sway back adjustment, removing 3cm total from the centre back neckline. This proved to be perfect, so I went ahead and made the jacket.

This jacket included many firsts for me. Bound buttonholes, welt pockets, collar plus under collar and underlining. These were all remarkably easy compared to what I thought. I'd psyched myself up and was pleasantly surprised how simple they were. I do like a bit of measuring and ruling. It's the nerd in me.

I lengthened the jacket by 5cm so my shirt wouldn't show as much. I did try 10cm at first but that was too much. The front of the jacket is slightly shorter than back. I didn't notice this until it was too late. If there is a next time, I'll fix that.

I've mentioned before that I bought the lining before the main fabric. I loved the print and knew I wanted a pink Anise jacket. It turned out to be the perfect match. I love the contrast. Unfortunately the lining silk liked to snag despite many new needles.

Project Details
Pattern: Anise Jacket by Colette Patterns, size 14
Fabric: Fuchsia wool blend boucle from Rathdowne Fabrics
Lining: Silk print from The Remnant Warehouse
Alterations: Lengthened by 5cm, sway back adjustment following instructions in the Anise Companion, used one shoulder pad only
Notions: Plastic silver floral print 2.5cm buttons from Rathdowne Fabrics

I didn't use all of the main fabric that the pattern suggested. I have almost a metre left, so if you're going to make this jacket, keep that in mind.

 

I quite like the look of the jacket open. I'm yet to wear it out in public so we'll see how I end up wearing it.

 

A few close ups for your inspection...

I'm ridiculously pleased with myself for making this jacket. I really enjoyed the challenge and taking my time. I should try slowing down more often!!

So, what do you think of my fuchsia jacket??

L x

Plan: Winter

I've got plans people!! And lots of them. I've been a bit out of sorts with my sewing for the last few months and I feel I've finally found my groove again. I'm excited about it once again!

I had today off again with Mr H, who is recovering from his adenoid/tonsil removal, and we spent some time in my cupboard. I cleared out a few things I don't wear. Most were things that didn't fit well and I avoided because of this. I also spent four hours ironing (while watching movies), so I got a good idea of what I had and what I needed in my Winter wardrobe. Basically, I need more basic separates. T-shirts, tops, pants/jeans and jackets were clearly lacking. I obviously love dresses and will always make dresses but I can't wear dresses all the time. Seriously, a dress on a cold, windy and wet Melbourne day at the park with the boys?? No thank you. I could also do with a few more work dresses. I keep gravitating towards a few that I really like and always get compliments wearing so I'll repeat those patterns.

I have grand plans but will just share my immediate plans.

First up is the Anise Jacket by Colette Patterns. I'm a bit obsessed by jackets at the moment. I have this one all lined up, then a cropped black one (more on that later) and then I have the red Lady Grey waiting for her time to shine! I also want to make a black wool jacket that's a bit dressier. I wear my black wool Minoru all the time but it is a little bit casual at times. I'm thinking Vogue 8548 with the less dramatic neckline.

Back to the Anise, I cut this out today after doing my calico over the weekend. The inspiration for this jacket came from a trip to the zoo last winter with a friend and her kids. She had a lovely double breasted, cropped fuschia jacket on with skinny jeans. It stuck in my mind and when Colette Patterns released the Anise jacket I knew exactly what I wanted!

The main fabric is a wool blend boucle from Rathdowne Fabrics and the lining is a designer silk from the Remnant Warehouse. I bought the lining before the main fabric because I loved it so much...

More Alexa T-Tops! I've been wanting a black & white stripe one for some time and when I spotted Lisa's version, I knew this fabric would be perfect. I just needed to collect a few more things in my virtual Tessuti shopping bag before buying. The crazy print is a remnant from Clegs that I have no idea why I bought but I'll make it into a short sleeved Alexa. It will be perfect with a bright cardigan!

Another Vogue 1250 mainly for work  but also casual. This fabric is so luscious! It is beautiful and soft. It will be perfect with black tights and my Cordova for work or a black cardigan and boots for casual days.

I've been wanting to try this pattern for ages. I bought the book in Japan almost two years ago! I'm not sure if the fabric suits my skin tone but I think I might be able to pull it off with a bit of red lipstick. It is an off-white to beige shade rather than white.

My jeans from last year are starting to wear and it's only a matter of time before I have a serious wardrobe malfunction. So I need some more that aren't skinnies. I bought this soft denim which has a bit of stretch at the Remnant Warehouse during our Sydney expedition. I haven't seen many versions of the Juniper pants on the internet so we'll see how they go.

I also bought some of the black wool boucle from Tessuti which is reduced at the moment. I'm obsessed with the idea of a little black Chanel-inspired jacket. I'm going to use Vogue 7975 which is quite simple. I am having trouble finding the black braid for the edges. Does anyone know where I can get it? Both Tessuti and Clegs in Melbourne city didn't have any. Check out this video on the making of a Chanel little black jacket.

So those are my immediate plans. I also have a swimsuit in there somewhere as we're heading to the States soon for a family holiday. How fabulous is this fabric?!

So what do you think? What are your plans? Any idea where I can get the Chanel style black braid?

L x

Sew: Vogue 1314 in Charcoal Merino Knit

 

 

The last Vogue 1314 in my trilogy. For now at least, until I find some more fabric!! I love them. Super quick. Flattering. Knit. What more could a girl want?!

 



 

This is such a versatile pattern. I've made three dresses in three weeks using the same pattern with different types of fabric to achieve three completely different looks. This pattern is a serious contender against Vogue 1250!

 



 

 

This version is made with a merino knit from Rathdowne Fabrics. It was bought last winter for a Renfrew top but winter was over before I could get around to it. After the success of the floral Vogue 1314, I shopped my stash and found this. Perfect.

 

 



 

Again, I didn't line this dress. I wanted to as the fabric is quite thin but I didn't have enough lining in my stash and didn't want to go to the fabric store. So I opted to wear a stretch shift underneath instead.

Project Details
Pattern: Vogue 1314, size 16
Fabric: Charcoal merino knit from Rathdowne Fabrics
Alterations: Sway back adjustment, omitted lining

The perfect winter dress! I wore it out last night with my Cordova jacket for dinner with my sewing blogging buddies to Hellenic Republic (yum!!). Such a wonderful night with lovely ladies.

 

 

L x

Conclude: Autumn & Winter Wardrobe 2012

Tomorrow it's Spring!! Finally! Except it is still very cold and windy here in Melbourne. But the blossoms are starting to show slightly, before they get blown away...

Way back in March I planned a wardrobe for Autumn and Winter. I even had a colour scheme! This planning worked really well and I actually sewed most items on my list plus some extras.


Completed

Sewaholic Minoru Jacket - Black Wool Coating with Liberty Lantana lining

Tessuti New York Cape - Marc Jacobs coating

Clover Pants - Charcoal Wool Suiting

Clover Pants -Navy Stretch Drill

Clover Pants -Black Wool Crepe

Renfrew Top View C (cowl neck) - Black Wool Interlock

Renfrew Top View C - Yellow Merino Wool Knit

Renfrew Top View B (plus 3/4 sleeves) - Charcoal Marc Jacobs Mesh Knit

Renfrew Top View B - black linen knit

Vogue 8028 Shirtdress - Suda Night Check

Infinity Scarf - leftover yellow merino knit

Simplicity 2451 skirts - lightweight denim (unblogged & unworn)

My favourites...

 

 

 

In Progress (various stages):

• Vogue 8560 Skirt - Black & White Doily Fabric
• Simplicity 4237 pants - lightweight denim (made too small - must run more!!)

Not Started:
Simplicity 2451 skirt - charcoal cord (never found charcoal cord)

Extra Items:
Pink Infinity Scarf
Print Simplicity 2215 Skirt
Abstract Simplicity 2215
Bird Vogue 1086 Dress
Emerging Spots Simplicity 2360
Burda Style Cropped Jacket
White Linen Knit Renfrew
Argo #4000 pencil skirt
Autumn Skirt - Simplicity 2343
Black Pencil Skirt - Vogue 8363
Black Merino Knit Renfrew
New Look 6000 abstract
Under Fire Vogue 1027
Simplicity 2250 Jacket
Animal Vogue 1250 Dress
Kwik Sew 3609 Bathers
Denim Simplicity 2215 Skirt (unworn and unblogged)

 

 

My unplanned favourites... 

 

 

 

 

 

I also sewed about 10 pairs of pants for the boys, a few skirts for my neice, a lunch bag and I am almost finished a Negroni!! My poor sewing machine needs a holiday.

I have started a list of things I want to sew for Spring & Summer using fabric from my well stocked stash. There is so much beautiful fabric in there that I want to use it. I'll share my plans soon!

 

Tomorrow, Rachel and I are doing the Freddie Vest class at Tessuti. Super excited.

 

L x

Sew: Under Fire Vogue 1027

I love this pattern. I love this fabric. Match made in heaven!

 

This dress has been made for a week. Patiently hanging while the bias in the skirt stabilised enough for hemming. Then hanging some more, waiting for me to actually wear it. Our house has been full of the lurgy. My youngest then got croup and now he has a raging fever. Bring on spring, I say!! So please excuse the pink eyes, dark circles and uncontrollable hair.

 

This is my third version of this dress. From previous experience, I shortened the skirt by 20cm and shortened the tie by a total of approximately 50cm, to prevent me from continuously standing on them whilst bending down to pick things up or playing with the boys. I also overlapped the front bodice pieces by an extra 2.5cm to prevent further wardrobe malfunctions.

As the weight of the fabric is quite significant in this dress, I stabilised the shoulder seams with a cotton drill tape. I avoided the armscye and simply turned the edge in by 1cm and used a twin needle. This is what I've done on all versions with great success. And for this version, I used some techniques from my swimsuit sewing by inserting elastic around the waist seam at the back only and topstitching it down with a triple zig-zag stitch.

 

 

 

Project Details
Pattern: Vogue 1027
Fabric: Under Fire viscose/elastane jersey from Tessuti Melbourne
Alterations:

• Shortened skirt by 20cm (possibly a little too much)
• Shortened tie by 1/3 (50cm)
• Overlapped bodice by an extra 2.5cm
• Stabilised shoulder seams with cotton tape
• Went down 2 sizes - usually a size 18 in Vogue (cut a 14)

 

 

 

 I really like this dress but am not feeling the love looking at these photos of me actually in it. What do you think?

 

On my sewing table today is a Colette Negroni shirt for Mr Sew Brunswick as a Father's Day present. It is coming along surprisingly well. It will compliment the many paintings and presents made at childcare perfectly.

 

What's on your sewing table this weekend?

 

L x

Sew: Simplicity 2250 Jacket

Hello, my name is Leith and I have cardigan obsessive disorder... I wear cardigans all the time. I even wear them to bed. Cardigan was in Mr N's first 50 words. I love cardigans!

I am attempting to revamp my work wardrobe. Moving away from cardigans with everything and more into short cropped jackets with shift dresses. I was having coffee with Rachel one day when she told me she bought some black ponti knit for a jacket, Simplicity 2250. Light bulb moment! I instantly thought of binding the seams and cuffs with polkadots.

Project Details

Pattern: Simplicity 2250, Jacket

Fabric: Black Lightweight Ponti Knit from Rathdowne Fabrics

Notions: 1cm thick shoulder pads, bias binding

Alterations: Cut size 20, took extra 1cm off seams (next time size 18), shaped side seams in at waist by another 1cm.

I'm pretty pleased with this make. It will get good wear at work. I'd like to make this again in a lightweight denim for a casual jacket to wear with summer dresses. What do you think?

Does anyone know of a short casual blazer pattern? Preferably lined and approximately hip length?

On another note, I am super excited about tomorrow's Sewist's Meet Up!! Can't wait to meet you all. The only problem is, what to wear?!

L x

Sew: New York Cape

 Meet my New York Cape! Isn't she beautiful? My lovely parents gave me the pattern as a Christmas present and I had been keeping my eye out for the perfect check wool coating. Finally I found the perfect fabric, a Marc Jacobs wool coating from the The Fabric Store, and I was on my merry way.

Cutting the fabric out took some time and mental strength, not to mention a stiff drink! It took me hours to get my head around matching the checks both vertically and horizontally. It's not perfect but I am very pleased with it. I used some handy tips from Pattern Scissors Cloth for working with checks and plaids.

All up, this project was a really enjoyable sew. I really like the finish that the binding gives and I love my new cape. Perfect for a girls night out at The Brunswick Green with my mothers group friends. 

Project Details
Pattern: Tessuti New York Cape
Fabric: Marc Jacobs Wool Coating from The Fabric Store
Notions: 8 x 23mm buttons from Rathdowne Fabrics, 5.1m navy Mokuba wool binding from Tessuti, 6m navy poly-cotton 12mm bias binding, thread & interfacing

L x