Sew: Simplicity 2215 Liberty Dress

 

 

Simplicity 2215, how I love thee?! I've made the skirt three times now so it was time for the dress version. I asked you all what to do with this Liberty way back in March. It was a choice between the Colette Peony dress and Simplicity 2215. The Simplicity won out.

 

 

 

Yet, it was almost not meant to be. I had great difficulty with the neckline gaping, both back and front, and was very tempted to cut the bodice off and turn it into a skirt. Wouldn't it be a great skirt with a red grosgrain ribbon as the waistband?!

 

 

Despite the temptation I persisted and make a few alterations to achieve the finished result. I inserted two small darts in the back neckline to remove the gaping. Thankfully Liberty prints are very forgiving. I couldn't use darts in the front so I asymmetrically overlapped the front by an extra 1cm at the top to remove the gaping. I then simply stitched the buttons on in a straight line. The bottom four buttons are non-functioning and stitched right through. The top button is also decorative with a snap to close the front. You need that to open so you can get your head out.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 2215 Dress
Fabric: Liberty Tatum Dark Blue from Shaukat
Alterations: Inserted two small darts in back neckline and overlapped front top by an extra 1cm.

I really need to sort out this alteration for back and front neckline gaping. I have noticed it a lot in dresses I made last year which have high necklines. Fit for Real People has no helpful suggestions. Any suggestions?

 

 

I'm really pleased with my new Liberty dress. I do love a bit of Liberty. I'm actually sewing a Liberty Lonsdale dress for Mr H's birthday party tomorrow. It is coming together superbly.

 

I'm off to bake a rainbow cake!! Wish me luck.

 

L x

 



Sew: Vogue 8815 Floral Peplum

 

 

 

A very floral and pretty top for spring. This is the most comfortable and fancy "t-shirt" I have ever worn. As the top was made in a lovely soft and lightweight ponti knit it feels like wearing a t-shirt but a bit dressier. After seeing Colette's version of this pattern, I couldn't stop thinking about the red version and finally succumbed.



 

This time around I used the pattern sleeves, simply shortened by 5cm, and I did not line this version. I also followed the instructions and used bias binding on the neckline. I was a little worried how this would work out but it worked just fine.

Project Details
Pattern: Vogue 8815
Fabric: Red Mazzetto Ponti (Digital Printed) from Tessuti Fabrics
Alterations: Size 16 at top graded to size 18 at waist, shortened sleeves by 5cm, lowered the bust darts by 2.5cm

For the first time ever yesterday, I was spotted in the street and recognised as "Sew Brunswick". It was quite funny and surreal.

 

 

I have another version of this top cut out and ready to go. Next up a red & white polka dot without sleeves.

 

L x

Sew: Colette Hazel Dress FAIL

The dreaded hanger shot. The Colette Hazel Dress and I are not friends. I shouldn't be too harsh as I think it is mainly due to the fabric and not the pattern. The fabric is quite a stiff poplin that I bought in Japan last year. It is not nice fabric and I've become accustomed to nice fabric. The fit issues are mainly with the bodice darts but I don't love it enough to unpick it and attempt to fix it.

You win some, you lose some.

I'm willing to try again in a nicer, softer fabric. I even bought some Japanese cotton voile yesterday when I popped in to Rathdowne Fabrics for notion supplies. We will see how that goes.

Have you tried the Colette Hazel dress? What's your opinion?

L x

Sew: Denim Simplicity 2250 Jacket

 

After the success of my first Simplicity 2250 Jacket, I was keen to make another fast! I decided on a denim version to be worn casually with my many floral dresses and skirts. I pilfered some denim from the boys' stash and was on my merry way.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 2250
Fabric: Indy Dark Denim 6GSM Light Weight Denim from Kelani Fabrics
Alterations: Size 18, removed 2.5cm from centreback seam at neckline grading down to nothing at the middle back, bound seams with purple floral bias binding, inserted shoulder pads and sleeve heads

The last version is a little big all over but particularly across the top back, so I removed 2.5cm from the centre back. I also made a smaller size this time but didn't alter the seams for a more fitted shape. I wanted to keep this jacket casual and loose. I did try my hand at sleeve heads and am very pleased with the final result.

A great casual but classic style jacket for summer.

L x

Sew: Vogue 1250

 

I wear my first Vogue 1250 so much that I thought I'd make another. This is such a quick and easy project. I feel another, more summery version coming soon...  

 

Project Details
Pattern: DKNY Vogue 1250
Fabric: Mystery Girl Italian printed Viscose/Elastane Jersey from Tessuti
Alterations: 4cm swayback adjustment, lengthened 7.5cm and double cowl neck

The fit at the back is much better this time around as I did a swayback adjustment on the pattern piece before cutting the fabric. On advice from my mother I doubled the cowl to prevent the wrong side of the fabric showing.

 

This pattern needs a really drapey knit fabric and I do prefer the fabric on the first version better as it is more slinky and better for layering in this Melbourne climate. I do love this happy floral version nonetheless.

 

If you have a few spare hours, I highly suggest this pattern! It is an absolute winner.

 

L x

Sew: Colette Patterns Iris Shorts

 

 

Due to the fact that I am a farmer's daughter, let's talk about the weather!! On Thursday, Melbourne didn't reach 12 degrees. Yesterday and today were sunny and well over 20 degrees. Tropical!! Time to pull out the shorts.

 



These shorts have been hanging on my sewing room door for well over a week waiting for some warm weather and sunshine. True to their word, these shorts were quick and simple to sew up, taking only a few enjoyable hours. I made a straight size 16 with no fit alterations. I extended the length by 10cm as I wasn't sure about wearing shorts, let alone short shorts. I think they turned out nicely.

I did make the pockets according to the instructions but once finished they drove me nuts. I do not need any more bulk in my lower tummy region (thank you Mr N & Mr H!) and I was always fiddling with the pockets to make them sit flat. I ended up simply overlocking the pockets off but leaving the opening to create a faux pocket detail.

Project Details
Pattern: Colette Patterns Iris Shorts
Fabric: Echino Polka Dot Fuschia Pink 85% cotton & 15% linen from Kelani Fabrics
Alterations: lengthened shorts by 10cm and used a 5cm hem, no fit adjustments

These shorts will be perfect for outings with my boys on warm summer days. I am planning two more pairs in a dark denim and a natural linen.

Perfect with my new Saltwater Sandals! 

L x

Sew: Vogue 8815 Peplum Top

Well, you certainly didn't see it here first! This is the pattern of the week! Vogue 8815, aka the Peplum Top pattern. Jorth has made it. Colette from Sew Tessuti has made it. Twice!  Erica B has styled it to the max. Mimi G totally rocked it. Anyone else?

I originally purchased this ponti for a dress but wasn't quite sure which one to go for. Then I saw this pattern on Voguepatterns.com and quickly made my decision. I am in the process of making a pencil skirt to go with this top for a peplum "dress" look, but I couldn't wait to wear this top! I love the colour and the style is fun and a bit flirty.

I switched the sleeves for the cap sleeves from Vogue 8787 and lined the sleeves and bodice. I cut a size 18 (yay!) and graded the sides in by an extra inch at the armhole. I could possibly drop the bust dart by an inch in my next version. Yes, there will be another one (or two, or three!).




Vogue 8815

Project Details
Pattern: Vogue 8815 (sleeves from Vogue 8787)
Fabric: Blueberry Ponti from Tessuti Fabrics plus matching lining
Alterations: Lined sleeves and bodice, substituted sleeves from Vogue 8787 for a capped sleeve,

Have you jumped on the Peplum Top bandwagon yet?

L x

Sew: Scout Woven Tee

 

 

A quick and easy sew. Perfect for breaking up the monotony of sewing lined shift dresses for work and cutting out heaps of items including the Lily Linen Dress. That thing takes forever to piece together!

Project Details

Pattern: Scout Woven Tee by Grainline Studio

Fabric: Japanese Cotton (very drapey) purchased in Tokyo last year

Alterations: None. Cut a size L.

My only suggestion for this tee is to select a fabric with a good drape. There are no darts in the front panel so a fabric with good drape is required so it doesn't stick out too much. I would love a Liberty one. Perfect for layering on my "Mummy" days.

This fabric was a holiday purchase on our trip to Japan last year. I was lucky enough to score a day in the fabric district, Nippori, and I bought as much as I could fit into my backpack which was not nearly enough. I considered sacrificing nappies and formula for more fabric but came to my senses! Thankfully as that stuff is hard to find in Japan. I would love to go back to Japan one day. It was an amazing holiday, perfect for children and full of amazing fabric & notions. In the meantime, I will wear items sewn from my holiday fabrics to remind me of my travels. And plan the next holiday!

Do you buy fabric on holidays? Where's your favourite holiday destination to shop for fabric? Any tips?

L x

Sew: Vogue 8787

 

 

 

Item 3 of my work wardrobe overhaul is Vogue 8787 in a black ponti knit. This pattern was a complete impulse buy whilst I was searching for another pattern. There are very limited versions of this dress on the internet which made me quite suspicious. Nothing to worry about, I am really pleased with this make. Well, I should say I was very happy until I saw these photos... Lumpy bumpy!

The pattern is a Very Easy Vogue (which I think is a bit of a stretch) for a fully lined dress with two neckline variations and two skirt variations. This was my wearable muslin as I was planning on the cowl neckline in a blueberry ponti but wanted to check the fit first. I made two sway back adjustments, removing 2 cm from above and below the waistband. I re-straightened the grainline following this adjustment to remove approximately 2cm from each side of the back neckline. Most dresses gape at the back neckline on me. I made a size 20, removing an extra 1cm from the side seams and centre back seam. I will make a size 18 in future. I could also size the bodice down another side as well. It is slightly too big and bags a bit.

I recommend sewing the dress and lining as separate pieces and wait until all the fitting is done before putting them together. The pattern instructions have you making the lined bodice first and then the lined skirt before attaching them together.  I could have done a better job of the fitting but the bodice was all lined and sealed by the time I realised and there was no way I was unpicking it.

I have now decided on a peplum top and pencil skirt for the blueberry ponti so will have to find another fabric for the cowl neck version. The ponti knit is probably a bit thick for this pattern. I quite like the idea of an emerald green or burnt orange crepe.

Project Details
Pattern: Very Easy Vogue 8787
Fabric: Black Ponti from Rathdowne Fabrics (same as my Simplicity 2250 jacket), lining from Clegs
Alterations: Sway back adjustment, lengthened by 10cm, removed excess from back neckline

So, what do you think? A winner or a loser?

On another topic, what do you use for managing your photos and loading them on to your blog? I'm having trouble with the quality of the images I load. Any suggestions? Tips or programs I should use?

L x

Sew: Freddie Vest

I was lucky enough to grab some time away from home and do the Freddie Vest sewing class at Tessuti with Rachel. What a lovely way to spend a cold and windy day!

 

 

 

I almost finished the vest during the class. I just had to do some handstitching to complete the vest.

All of my fabrics were from Tessuti at some stage. I used a doubled sided linen for the front and a metallic coated knit for the lining. For the back, I used a metallic blend salvaged from a failed skirt.

Overall, I'm quite happy with this vest. It is not really my style but I think that worked to my advantage as I was willing to mix up the fabrics and take a chance.

Project Details
Pattern: Freddie Vest, The Makers Journal
Fabric: Various fabrics from Tessuti Melbourne
Alterations: Size 14 - added 1cm to each centre back seam to widen the back (total 2cm)

I wore it out last night with a fitted pair of black Clovers, a kimono tee and a pair of black high heels. I totally rocked it!

The tee in the pictures is a Kirsten Kimono T-Shirt made using a free pattern download from Maria Denmark. I forgot to add the seam allowances to this version but it turned out ok. Unfortunately the fabric does not wear well. It is a great simple pattern and I see plenty more of these tees in the near future!

L x

Plan: Spring & Summer Wardrobe

I have a cupboard full of beautiful fabric ready to be made into a new spring wardrobe. So I am going to shop my stash and wear all that fabulous fabric.

Are you ready for my list? It's quite long. I even have a few photos. Here we go...

Work Wardrobe

• Vogue 8815 Peplum top & Butterick 3597 pencil skirt - blueberry ponti
• New Look 6000 - black ponti & grey geometric print
• Simplicity 2591 - black & white stripe (add pleated band over shoulder)
• Vogue 8787 cowl neck dress - not sure which fabric yet
• Butterick 3597 pencil skirts - 3 x remnants in my stash
• Black blouse - silk crepe de chine

Casual Wardrobe

Cambie Dress - cotton sateen & CD floral

Lonsdale dress - Liberty

Simplicity 2215 dress - Liberty

Grainline Scout Tee - black Japanese floral

Grainline Tiny pocket tank - yellow floral (refashioned), navy birds, emerging spots

Simplicity jacket - gold/beige washed linen

Colette Hazel dress - Japanese "industrial" border print

Simplicity 2250 jacket - Kelani denim

Kimono Tee - under fire & black spots

McCalls Maxi dress

Tessuti Lily dress - red linen

Vogue 1027 - Tessuti Eruption jersey

Vogue 1250 - Tessuti Mystery Girl jersey

Little Black Dress

I want to make something out of this pink and blue cotton print but I have no idea what. I have 1.5m and it is 150cm wide. Shift dress? Simplicity 2599 tank with asymmetrical pleats? Any ideas?


Finish

• Black ponti pencil skirt
• Black wideleg pants
• Doily skirt
• Freddie Vest
• Kimono Tee - Under Fire
• Vogue 8787 dress - black ponti

Excessive?

L x

Sew: Colette Negroni for Father's Day

Happy Father's Day! When asked what he would like for Father's Day, my husband replied with "to sleep in until 8am". That's all he wanted. Admittingly we are usually up well before 6am, so 8am is a luxury. He made it until 7am before emerging.

I also made him a Negroni and the boys gave him some chocolate.

Here's my first attempt at a Negroni.

 

 

 

This is a size XL. Many will say it is too big and not fitted enough but this is how he likes his shirts. He hates feeling restricted. Plus I am not a huge fan of very fitted shirts. He asked me to copy the sizing of a fave Ben Sherman shirt which was very helpful during the construction process. Next time I will make the next size down just to see. I'm hoping for a nice crisp cotton.

 

Project Details

Pattern: Negroni by Colette Patterns

Fabric: Some kind of blended shirting from The Fabric Store

Alterations: Shortened sleeves by 7.5cm and hem by 4cm.

 

Mr Sew Brunswick is very happy with his new shirt and I think he's pleasantly surprised with the final shirt. He's wearing it today! 

 

Happy Father's Day!

 

L x