Sew: Black & Grey Pixelated McCalls 6460

Following on from my Gridlock M6460, I hacked in to the pattern and made an excessive amount of alterations. I was a bit scared that I'd destroyed the pattern and even asked my mum to get me another copy of the pattern just in case. But it all worked out! 

The printed cotton sateen was a random find from Spotlight many moons ago, when they still had a store in Brunswick. My 4 year old chose it and it was destined to become another NL6000. It sat on the shelf for a long time and I glimpsed it one day sitting with a black piece of fabric while I was rummaging through my pattern stash. Lightbulb moment! I personally think the fabric pairing is verging on epic. I love it.

Look at that fit! I'm really enjoying tweaking patterns to suit my shape and preferences. I love the process of slashing and taping and tracing to get a perfectly fitted pattern. It's my inner geek coming out! 

Project Details
Pattern: McCalls 6460, size 16
Fabric: Printed cotton sateen from Spotlight & black cotton sateen from Clegs, lining from Clegs
Alterations:

• 4cm sway back adjustment
• Removed 3cm from back neckline at the centre 
• Removed 3cm total from front neckline
• Lowered bust darts by 2.5cm
• Folded out a dart from the front and back 8cm below the underarm - removed 2.5cm total
• Added kick pleat to the back
• Lengthened by 7cm

Next time I will add more length. I will also probably merge the body of NL6000 with the sleeves and top of the this pattern. The body and bust darts of NL6000 are perfect on me but I really like the raglan sleeve. I think this combination will result in a perfect pattern. 

I have a few more items to blog before I catch up. I'm not sure what is next on my sewing table. Probably more work clothes. I really need more work clothes. I've also got another pair of Tessuti Anita pants and a Tokyo jacket on the list. Oh, and I really need to get back to that little black jacket... 

L x

Sew: McCalls 6460

I've been doing a bit of sewing. Finally! I'm now finding it hard to get photos of my makes as it is dark when I leave home in the morning, Mr Sew Brunswick has been travelling and I get home in my running gear not my handmade garments. I snapped these photos on my way out the door the other morning. Apologies for the poor light but this dress is a wearable muslin. A rather successful wearable muslin but a muslin all the same. I'm getting picky with the fit of my handmade garments.

The pattern is McCalls 6460 which is a sheath dress with various options. I chose view A with a darted raglan sleeve. Love the sleeves! You should all remember the fabric as the Gridlock Tessuti Competition fabric. I had a fair bit left and so did my Mum so I combined them to make another dress. You can see my original dress here.

The pattern sewed up relatively easily. The main problem is that you can't try the dress on until it is pretty much completely sewn together. This makes fitting it as you sew a bit difficult. I will wear this dress but I'm going to make it again incorporating all my changes. 

I added blue ponti piping to the raglan sleeves to add a bit of interest. The blue piping around the neckline was a last minute decision. It was supposed to be turned in and topstitched down but I like the contrast around the neckline. I simply stitched in the ditch to secure it.

Project Details:
Pattern: McCalls 6460, view A, size 18 graded out to a size 20 hips
Fabric: Gridlock from Tessuti, blue ponti from Clegs for flat piping and binding, navy rayon lining from Clegs
Alterations: 4cm sway back adjustment, removed 3cm from centre back neckline
Future alterations:

• Remove 3cm total from front neckline.
• Size 16 chest graded out to a size 18 hips.
• Lower bust darts by 2.5cm
• Fold dart out of front and back 8cm below underarm - remove total of 2cm at side seam
• Add kick pleat to back

Another dress for my work wardrobe. It's not a real winner but will get a bit of wear. I'm off to make the next version now while the changes are fresh in my mind!

L x

Sew: McCalls 6559 (again)

Surprise! I made another M6559!! I love this pattern. It is such a good pattern for my everyday life.

I've had my eye on this fabric for years but it is quite a stiff knit so always opted for something else. A few months ago I was in Tessuti doing a fitting class when someone bought it, leaving 1.2 metres on the roll. I quickly pounced on the remnant (and a few others) and this lovely became mine. Obviously, it's still not a perfect knit for this dress but it makes a great little dress. 

Project Details

Pattern: McCalls 6559, size 16-18

Fabric: Japanese printed cotton knit from Tessuti

Alterations: Graded from 16 bust to 18+ hips as the fabric has limited drape and I didn't want it clinging, finished neck and armholes with self fabric binding. 

Perfect for market shopping on a beautiful spring day! 

Although I love this pattern, I finally bought the Mission Maxi pattern this week to give it a go. I wear this style of dress all the time on my days off so thought it was time to see what all the fuss was about with the Mission Maxi. Any tips?

L x

Sew: Liberty Knit Nightie (McCalls 6559)

I like to wear nighties that can double as a dress. Not that I usually wear it as a dress but it is very handy when travelling or hanging around at home to have a nightie that doesn't scream "Oh my, she's still in her nightie!!" if you happen to answer the door or pop out of the hotel room to check the laundry. Just throw on a cardigan and a pair of ballet flats and you're somewhat respectable.

I bought this fabric to make a dress for work but when it arrived it was too pale and quite lightweight. I tried to give it to my mum but she said it would make a great nightie. So being the good daughter that I am, I followed her advice. I used my trusty McCalls 6559 maxi dress pattern ignoring the instructions and used 5cm bands to finish the neck and arm holes. I overlocked and topstitched them like a t-shirt, rather than turning to the inside (like my stripe dress), to provide more coverage.

Project Details
Pattern: McCalls 6559 maxi dress
Fabric: Liberty knit from Shaukat (similar to this one)

The combination of this light and drapey Liberty knit with a simple dress pattern creates a beautiful and super comfortable nightie.

L x

Sew: McCalls 6559 Maxi Dress

I'm back. Again. After being home for three days, I went to Cairns for a work conference. I had a fabulous time with interstate colleagues. But after 4 days of sitting in lectures, networking and partying, I am absolutely shattered. Inspired and enthused but exhausted.

On to my next sewing project! You may remember I made an Alexa T-top out of this knit and absolutely loved the fabric. So when Lisa from Tessuti said they had just 2.8m left, I quickly bought it all. It is nice and thick and washes beautifully. But don't despair, Lisa informed me today that they have more in stock. Hop to it! Actually don't, I want it all for myself.

Back to the dress! Before we left for the States I was very keen to make a midi dress out of this fabric. There was much internal debate about what pattern to use. I was tempted to make a fitted dress with a scooped neck and half sleeves but I kept coming back to a singlet based dress. I thought a singlet dress would be more versatile. Cool in hot weather but easily layered with a cardigan and scarf. It was a perfect travel dress. Great for the plane, exploring San Francisco and playing at Disneyland. 

I did my standard sway back adjustment and removed 3cm from centre back neckline. The length is halfway between the short and long length. I like this length better than a maxi length for practicality reasons. I don't trip on it!  

I finished the neck and arms by using a 5cm wide strip of fabric. I turned it in and top stitched down. The top is fitted and I left the waist and hips loose. 

 

 

Mater!! 

 

Excellent stripe matching. 

There's still a bit of fabric pooling in my lower back but I can live with that.

Project Details
Pattern: McCalls 6559, view D, size 16
Fabric: Yin and Yang Ebony (viscose spandex blend) from Tessuti
Alterations: Graded in to size 14 at bust, shortened to a midi length, used bands to finish neck and armholes.

I still have a bit of this fabric left. I'm thinking a loose, boxy tee.

I really love this dress. Simple and classic. 

L x

Sew: McCalls 6611 Drape Jacket

 

It is done! My beautiful lurex-coated linen drape jacket!! I am beside myself with excitement on this jacket. I pushed the boundaries of my sewing knowledge, both in drafting a lining pattern and fitting. Even though this is a very happy ending, the start was not pretty.

 

 

It didn't start well at all. I originally had planned on a cropped jacket without the peplum. Omitting the peplum and lengthening the bodice by 10cm was disastrous. The hem sat at the top of my hip and was pulling rather than skimming across my hips. The hem finishing at my hips just made me look wide and boxy. There was also a lot of excess fabric on the front side panel, particularly in the upper bust area.

 

 

So I pulled the pattern out and cut out the peplum. I removed most of the additional length taking it back to the pattern specifications. This seam really needs to end on your natural waist. Adding the peplum completely changed the look and style. The way the peplum angles out is a nice feature that is flattering on the hips.

 

My grandmother helped me fit the upper bust and side area by removing at least 1cm from the side front panel all the way from the peplum seam to the armhole. This was a complete game changer! Originally the princess seam was too pronounced and sticking out, preventing the front of the jacket from draping nicely.  

 

 

 

 

Project Details

Pattern: McCalls 6611, size 18

Fabric: Champagne lurex coated Linen from Tessuti, beige goldliner lining from Clegs

Alterations:

• Lengthened bodice by 2cm
• Removed 1cm from front side panel at princess seam (from peplum to armhole)
• Added sleeves heads
• Used a 2.5cm seam at centreback
• Shortened sleeves by 10cm
• Drafted lining pattern using Grainline Studio tutorial

 

It's not perfect, but neither am I! The pattern is not high quality and certainly not in the league of a Vogue jacket pattern. It is however quite simple to sew and assemble. Just don't alter it too much!

The fabric is beautiful and luxurious. It flicks from a simple beige linen to a sparkly champagne linen with a slight change in light. The fabric is lovely to sew but a bugger to press. I was hoping to take it to the drycleaner for a good press but I don't think I'll bother as after one wear it is beautifully crinkled.

I lined the jacket body and sleeves with a beige lining after drafting a lining pattern myself. The pattern calls for you to simply sew the lining with the same pattern as the outer jacket. I knew I wanted more ease of movement so followed the Grainline tutorial to draft a pattern. The inside peplum is the same as the outer jacket. 

Overall, I am very happy with the jacket. I know it's not perfect but I'm ok with that. Life is too short to worry about over fitting!

L x

Table: McCalls 6611 Drape Jacket

What's on my sewing table this week? McCalls 6611 drape jacket is still on my table. I am determined to get this jacket right and finished before moving on (or back) to my next project, The Moss Mini skirt. This jacket should be called the labour of love jacket. I almost threw it in the bin last night but Rachel convinced me not to.

 

This is what it looked like yesterday afternoon....

 

 

 

 

 

 

My original alterations were disastrous! I lengthened the jacket by 10cm and left the peplum off. The jacket was very boxy and bunching over my hips. It also made me look very wide through the waist. Not flattering at all!

 

So I went back to the drawing board and cut out the peplum as well as removing 8cm of the extra length I'd added. The waist seam really needs to sit on my natural waist. I also reshaped and reduced the size of the drapes.

 

This is what it looks like tonight...

 



I am liking it soooooo much more with the addition of the peplum. The peplum really balances out the drape and defines the waist.

It is at the point of hemming the sleeves and lining. But I wonder about that extra fabric along the princess seam. Should I pinch out this fabric before finishing it or not worry about it?? I've already finished the sleeves so I don't want to mess with those. I find most patterns are a bit baggy at this upper chest area and I probably should have looked at this before now...

Any suggestions? Does it still look like a dud or am I being a bit harsh on it? It has just taken so much time and energy.

L x

Sew: McCalls 6559 Stripe Maxi

Once again, I am late to jump on the bandwagon. Last summer, maxi dresses were all the rage and I even invested in some lovely jersey from Tessuti to make a maxi. It was an absolute disaster! I was still carrying a fair bit of "baby" weight and the fabric was too thin for the style so it showed every lump and bump. Thankfully I salvaged the fabric and turned it into a fabulous skirt.  

Moving forward 12 months, I've lost almost 10kg and have gained more experience in matching the fabric to the pattern. Even though I have been taking steps to reduce my fabric expenditure, when I spotted this fabric on the sale rack at Clegs I knew it would be perfect for a maxi. It didn't even make it in to the fabric cupboard!!

 

 

I cut out a size 20 as directed by my measurements knowing that it would most likely be too big but not wanting it to be too tight. I then graded in the side seams from the armhole to the hip an extra 2.5cm. I left from the hip down the larger size as I quite like the loose look and I was very over matching the stripes...There is excessive fabric pooling at my back as I didn't do a swayback adjustment but it a casual dress and I think it turned out fine. 

 

 

 

Project Details

Pattern: McCalls 6559 View D

Fabric: Stretch jersey from Clegs

Alterations: Used self binding on armholes and neckline

 

The only alteration I made to the pattern was use the black stripe of the fabric to bind the neckline and armholes. The pattern instructions have you do a narrow hem on these which I thought was absurd. I simply cut 4cm strips of fabric and folded in half lengthwise. I measured each opening and used a strip of binding that was 85% of the opening length, stretching the binding to fit. Once stitched, I overlocked the seam and then pressed and topstiched the binding down. I also sewed the binding on first before doing the side seams which allows you to change the side seams without ruining your binding.

 

This was a quick and relaxing project to get myself back in to the swing of things. The boys are back in full swing after Mr N's surgery and Mr H adjusting to his glasses. I was away last week presenting at a professional conference in Canberra. I'm kind of a geek but I love conferences! We even went to Parliament House for dinner and the National Gallery for dessert and dancing. My mum came down to babysit the boys while I went to the conference. It was lovely going through patterns and fabric and googling patterns with my mum until late in to the night.

 

 

 

 

Lastly, this is how I wore my new maxi this morning to playgroup. It is still a bit chilly here in Melbourne...

 

Next up, a colour blocked Vogue 8805. What's on your sewing table this weekend?

 

 

L x

Crafternoon in the morning!

Hello friends! I have made the most amazing discovery. Now, I am quite keen on cafes, coffee and morning tea but this often doesn't mix well with two small kids. Male kids in particular. Add in the fact that Melbourne has given up on Autumn and plunged straight in to Winter. Cold, dark and miserable. I was pondering this morning what to do with the kids on a miserable day and I remembered reading a review of a cafe called Crafternoon. What a delight! Sausage rolls, a plastic cup and some crayons for Mr H to keep him happy whilst Mr N and I set about making a collage and a badge. Throw in some delicious coffee and fruit toast to make one happy lady (and two happy kids)!

Excuse the bad iPhone photo of my outfit (and the fact I have my eyes shut) but I had my hands full. On Day 3 of Me Made May I'm wearing a McCalls 5926 tunic with a black t-shirt and tights. If you want to see a review and pictures of the dress, check out this post the Lisa from Tessuti wrote last winter.

Polka Dot Blouse

I feel all grown up wearing a blouse. Don't you think that blouse is a fabulous word? It is right up there with frock.

I saw this pattern reviewed on Sew Tessuti last year and loved it. I love the look of it and would love to wear it tucked in to a black pencil skirt with tights and high heels. I just need a black pencil skirt...

Project Details
Pattern: McCalls 5884 View C (OOP - but I got it via an Ebay seller)
Fabric: Black and white sheer polka dot fabric from Tessuti Melbourne
Alterations: shortened ties by 16cm

Take note that this blouse is low cut and you will either need to wear a singlet underneath or alter the pattern. Next time, I will slightly increase the size of the sleeve cuffs. As they sit right on my elbow, my movement was restricted until lunch time when the fabric had given enough. I will also go down a size.

Excuse the mug shot quality photos. It is bucketing down here in Melbourne!

L x