February 11, 2014

Sew: Burda 7077


I finally finished a garment! I must admit I've been pretty out of sorts with this whole new routine of work, childcare and school. After a few weeks, we're finally finding our groove again. It's all about organisation!

I spent a fair amount of time in January assessing my wardrobe and cleaning it out. I discovered I'm in dire need of some new work clothes. When I increased my working hours this year, I realised I really only had 3 decent dresses that I wear to work. A bit of a problem now that I'm working 4 days a week! 

I've had this pattern in my sights for quite some time. During one of my fitting classes last year at Tessuti, two ladies used this pattern as their starting point. They were completely different shapes and sizes but Vanessa made the pattern look amazing on both of them. I quickly purchased the pattern knowing that it would be a good way to use this black and white stripe sateen. 


The pattern is for a patterned sheath dress and coat. The dress has a yoke and paneled body. I made the dress using two different cotton sateens. In terms of sizing, the bust is a size 18 graded out to a size 20 at the hips. I'm not very happy with the fit of this dress. It is a touch firm across the hips and stomach which is not unusual for a sheath dress. The problem is that the waist is very loose and baggy. I tried to pinch out the excess but this starts to mess with the lines of the pattern and the fall of the fabric. I decided to leave it as is. Hopefully, with a little more running and toning, it will fall over my hips and be loose all over. I feel that this pattern would be best suited to a non-hippy figure. 

The instructions were easy to follow. No issues there. The pattern did not call for a vent at the back which is kind of odd as I'm not sure how you're supposed to walk or sit down without one. I used a standard black vent which I copied from New Look 6000. My go to sheath dress pattern. 

I did my standard sway back adjustment, removing 4 cm length from the centre back and 3 cm width from the back neckline. These worked perfectly. I just need to work out how to fix the fit of the front... 

If you follow me on Instagram you would know that I did the invisible zip a couple of times until I got it perfect. My attention to detail skills, which are extremely important for my day job, were really starting to bug me that night. I am now glad I spent the time to make it perfect. I'm pretty impressed with the stripe matching!

As much as I love the stripes with the black side panels, I do not like how the stripes highlight every fitting flaw. You can see every drag mark and crease. A solid or pattern would work much better. 

Although it was a relative success and very comfortable to wear, I'm not sure if I will be making this pattern again. I'm sure there are better sheath dress patterns out there that will be a much better way to spend my precious time. 



Project Details
Pattern: Burda 7077, view A, size 18-20
Fabric: Striped stretch cotton sateen from Tessuti with black stretch cotton sateen and black goldliner lining from Clegs
Alterations: 4cm sway back adjustment with 3cm removed from back neckline

So now I am on the hunt for the perfect sheath dress to kit out my working wardrobe. What's your best suggestion?

L x

26 comments:

  1. i love the stripes! something so very timeless about them. It's hard to see the fitting issues you talk about - i think it looks great in these pics!

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  2. I have staged Vogue 1329 as I think it would look great for work. The new Vogue 1382 (without patch pockets - maybe inseam pockets?) is very cute.

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  3. I think my figure is a bit similar to yours and I have used the Dandelion Dress from Disparate Disciplines as a sheathish style dress and been very happy with it. I took some volume out of the side panel (just whacked a bit off as I was fitting it easy peasy) and it looks much straighter than the pattern illustrations.

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  4. I think any sheath dress is going to be less than perfect in terms of fit if you have any curves at all. Therefore, I'm mightily impressed by how very nice this one looks on you! And I have no suggestions for alternatives since, as you might have guessed, I couldn't wear one to save my life.

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  5. I vote Vogue 1349 for a great work dress.

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  6. Have you tried moving the needle position when inserting the invisible zip? I tried it the other day and OMG zipper went in perfect the first time. Previously, even though I was using an invisible zipper foot, the stitching was always too far from the zip :(

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  7. Looks great - I love the stripes

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  8. Well, I can't tell you had trouble fitting- the dress looks fantastic! I love the idea of wearing a sheath dress but I'm scared when it comes to sewing and fitting one, so no sheath dress suggestions here. The stripes are awesome.

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  9. I can't see the fitting issues?! In fact, it looks beautifully fitted and very flattering.

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  10. When I first looked at this post, I thought "I love that dress". It looks so nice on you and is a really elegant sheath dress. I have this pattern and I don't think I would ever have thought to use the stripe fabric in the CF and CB but after seeing you in this dress, you have really changed my plans for this pattern.
    I really like sheath dresses and I have made a few over the years and Burda is my usual go to pattern for a sheath. But recently I bought Merchant and Mills' 'Panel Dress'. I know you are familiar with this pattern company due to the Camber dress pattern, so you know how lovely they are. It is an expensive pattern but it is so worth it. The neck line is very flattering and it was easy to fit to my shape.

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  11. Great suggestions Marjorie! I'm so glad I've changed the way you approach this pattern.

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  12. Thanks Liza Jane! I find them really comfortable yet stylish for work. Plus they are wonderful when it is hot.

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  13. Thanks! I think as sewists we get very picky with the fit. I would hate to go RTW shopping!

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  14. Great tip! I have a Pfaff invisible zipper foot to go with my machine. It set me back a bit but it was revolutionary!

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  15. Thanks for the tip. You've made some great versions. I love how the front panel goes all the way to the top. You know what pattern I'm getting in the neck sale!!

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  16. I hadn't thought of those patterns. I MUST get them now! Thanks for the suggestions.

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  17. I love stripes too. They're almost as good as spots!

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  18. I'm no help with the sheath dress pattern. I will look up all the suggestions from others but I really like this on you and you did an amazing job with the zipper. Love the combination of fabrics. I think you should stick with this as it looks like all the hard work has been done :)

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  19. I think you look great in that dress in the pictures. The combination of stripes and black are very chic! But if it doesn't feel right...

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  20. Like everyone else when I first saw your photo I immediately thought what a beautiful dress! Finding a good sheath pattern is like the search for the Holy Grail... I've given up on a one piece dress and have currently settled on New Look 6968 as my TNT sheath dress, so far so good

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  21. I am guessing that you are extremely pleased that you matched up those stripes! You look wonderful in the dress, but I know what you mean about clothes having to feel right. In the meantime I'm sure that it will be great for work - it looks very elegant and classy. Just like you Leith!

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  22. I think it looks great! I can understand your frustrations though, and the desire to find a great TNT to maximize your precious time - I know all too well how fiddling with a badly behaved pattern can quash your sewing mojo when there's not that much time in a day to sew! ^__^


    As for a sheath dress, it depends on whether you want one more fitted or shapely but relaxed. Fitted ones I'm looking forward to trying are Gertie's wiggle dress (from her book) and the fabled NL 6000. But for a less "wiggly" look, I personally adore Colette's Laurel. It isn't a sack, because of the back darts, and it is super easy to whip up, and customize :)

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