Sew: McCalls 6611 Drape Jacket

 

It is done! My beautiful lurex-coated linen drape jacket!! I am beside myself with excitement on this jacket. I pushed the boundaries of my sewing knowledge, both in drafting a lining pattern and fitting. Even though this is a very happy ending, the start was not pretty.

 

 

It didn't start well at all. I originally had planned on a cropped jacket without the peplum. Omitting the peplum and lengthening the bodice by 10cm was disastrous. The hem sat at the top of my hip and was pulling rather than skimming across my hips. The hem finishing at my hips just made me look wide and boxy. There was also a lot of excess fabric on the front side panel, particularly in the upper bust area.

 

 

So I pulled the pattern out and cut out the peplum. I removed most of the additional length taking it back to the pattern specifications. This seam really needs to end on your natural waist. Adding the peplum completely changed the look and style. The way the peplum angles out is a nice feature that is flattering on the hips.

 

My grandmother helped me fit the upper bust and side area by removing at least 1cm from the side front panel all the way from the peplum seam to the armhole. This was a complete game changer! Originally the princess seam was too pronounced and sticking out, preventing the front of the jacket from draping nicely.  

 

 

 

 

Project Details

Pattern: McCalls 6611, size 18

Fabric: Champagne lurex coated Linen from Tessuti, beige goldliner lining from Clegs

Alterations:

• Lengthened bodice by 2cm
• Removed 1cm from front side panel at princess seam (from peplum to armhole)
• Added sleeves heads
• Used a 2.5cm seam at centreback
• Shortened sleeves by 10cm
• Drafted lining pattern using Grainline Studio tutorial

 

It's not perfect, but neither am I! The pattern is not high quality and certainly not in the league of a Vogue jacket pattern. It is however quite simple to sew and assemble. Just don't alter it too much!

The fabric is beautiful and luxurious. It flicks from a simple beige linen to a sparkly champagne linen with a slight change in light. The fabric is lovely to sew but a bugger to press. I was hoping to take it to the drycleaner for a good press but I don't think I'll bother as after one wear it is beautifully crinkled.

I lined the jacket body and sleeves with a beige lining after drafting a lining pattern myself. The pattern calls for you to simply sew the lining with the same pattern as the outer jacket. I knew I wanted more ease of movement so followed the Grainline tutorial to draft a pattern. The inside peplum is the same as the outer jacket. 

Overall, I am very happy with the jacket. I know it's not perfect but I'm ok with that. Life is too short to worry about over fitting!

L x