Sew: McCalls 6460

I've been doing a bit of sewing. Finally! I'm now finding it hard to get photos of my makes as it is dark when I leave home in the morning, Mr Sew Brunswick has been travelling and I get home in my running gear not my handmade garments. I snapped these photos on my way out the door the other morning. Apologies for the poor light but this dress is a wearable muslin. A rather successful wearable muslin but a muslin all the same. I'm getting picky with the fit of my handmade garments.

The pattern is McCalls 6460 which is a sheath dress with various options. I chose view A with a darted raglan sleeve. Love the sleeves! You should all remember the fabric as the Gridlock Tessuti Competition fabric. I had a fair bit left and so did my Mum so I combined them to make another dress. You can see my original dress here.

The pattern sewed up relatively easily. The main problem is that you can't try the dress on until it is pretty much completely sewn together. This makes fitting it as you sew a bit difficult. I will wear this dress but I'm going to make it again incorporating all my changes. 

I added blue ponti piping to the raglan sleeves to add a bit of interest. The blue piping around the neckline was a last minute decision. It was supposed to be turned in and topstitched down but I like the contrast around the neckline. I simply stitched in the ditch to secure it.

Project Details:
Pattern: McCalls 6460, view A, size 18 graded out to a size 20 hips
Fabric: Gridlock from Tessuti, blue ponti from Clegs for flat piping and binding, navy rayon lining from Clegs
Alterations: 4cm sway back adjustment, removed 3cm from centre back neckline
Future alterations:

• Remove 3cm total from front neckline.
• Size 16 chest graded out to a size 18 hips.
• Lower bust darts by 2.5cm
• Fold dart out of front and back 8cm below underarm - remove total of 2cm at side seam
• Add kick pleat to back

Another dress for my work wardrobe. It's not a real winner but will get a bit of wear. I'm off to make the next version now while the changes are fresh in my mind!

L x

Sew: Simplicity 1802 in Gridlock

Well, it's been a long time between finished items around here. I've been steadily working on my Tessuti Gridlock Competition entry. I took my time with the fitting and flat piping. I am so glad I did since I think this dress might be my proudest hand made item to date.

Let's take a look...

 

Look at that fit!!

And just a few more...

Now for the finer details...

 Copious amounts of basting and piping were done...

And even a handpicked zipper! My first ever.

The inside is beautiful too, with a lined bodice and bound armholes.

I used Simplicity 1802 for the basis of this dress and simply altered the skirt (as shown below). I didn't like the look of the skirt in the pattern and certainly didn't think the fabric would work for it.

The colour of the fabric is quite interesting. It can appear quite light and almost a lilac purple-blue in some lights but dark blue in other lights. I really wanted to work on the dark blue to suit my colouring so I paired it with a dark royal blue ponte for the piping to bring out the desired colour and shade. It is so very much my colour and I'd forgotten how much I love it.

Project Details
Pattern: Simplicity 1802, size 16
Fabric: Gridlock from Tessuti, dark royal blue ponte & blue gold-liner lining from Clegs
Alterations: Self- drafted a flared skirt using the pattern piece as guidance, lengthened skirt by 10cm

 

I was hesitant to use this pattern as it doesn't have many reviews and the few that are available are not very flattering. Despite my better judgement, I decided to take the plunge and use it anyway. I'd purchased 4 metres of fabric as I didn't have a plan, so I had plenty if this didn't work. I cut the bodice out first and basted all the pieces together (without the piping) to achieve the fit I wanted. I then trimmed the seams to 1.5cm and unpicked the basting before inserting all the flat piping by basting it all again. I unpicked sections and re-basted until I got the piping relatively even, before finally stitching all the seams. The fabric was quite thick and the seams required careful grading and a good press for a nice finish. There was no way an invisible zip was going to work with all that thickness at the joins, so I did my first ever handpicked zipper. It was an absolute pleasure to sew! I can't believe how much I enjoyed it.

I am so ridiculously excited about this dress. I took my time to address what I wanted out of this fabric and challenge. I pushed my boundaries and went out of my comfort zone. I took the long and proper way instead of taking the quickest and easiest route. I finally enjoyed the process of slow and steady sewing. It was good to slow down.

One more photo to show the big grin that this dress induces!

L x