Sew: Tessuti Anita Ponti Pants

 
These pants were almost in the "too boring to blog" category but I wanted to show you the adjustment I did on them to make them more wearable for me.

I made this pattern up twice last winter, in black and a charcoal print, with mixed results. They were extremely comfortable but not so flattering. Pants that bordered on being leggings were not the best choice for me. I still wear the black ones around home and even took them camping. The grey ones were donated.

I'm lucky to wear my weight fairly evenly distributed across my body. I do carry weight on my hips and I have large calves. Shopping for knee high boots is a nightmare!! I wanted the comfort and ease of wear of these ponti pants but I wanted them to be more flattering and less tight from the hips down. On one of my internet perusing sessions I discovered this tutorial on the Colette website on how to adjust a pattern for large legs. It was a light bulb moment!

So I hacked in to my Anita ponti pants pattern and added about 1cm to each side of the leg from the crotch line down. It worked a treat. I do have a bit of bagging around my knee but I think this is from the divot created where my large-ish thighs meet my large large carves. Something I'll have to live with. The photos above show where the fabric has also bagged a bit from wearing them two days in a row.

Project Details
Pattern: Tessuti Anita Ponti Pants, size 14
Fabric: Four way stretch black ponti from Clegs Brunswick
Alterations: Lengthened 10cm, raised back rise by 2.5cm, large leg adjustment 1cm each side

I wore them to work yesterday with my digital floral peplum top. It was like secretly wearing tracksuit pants all day!!

L x

Sew: Black & Grey Pixelated McCalls 6460

Following on from my Gridlock M6460, I hacked in to the pattern and made an excessive amount of alterations. I was a bit scared that I'd destroyed the pattern and even asked my mum to get me another copy of the pattern just in case. But it all worked out! 

The printed cotton sateen was a random find from Spotlight many moons ago, when they still had a store in Brunswick. My 4 year old chose it and it was destined to become another NL6000. It sat on the shelf for a long time and I glimpsed it one day sitting with a black piece of fabric while I was rummaging through my pattern stash. Lightbulb moment! I personally think the fabric pairing is verging on epic. I love it.

Look at that fit! I'm really enjoying tweaking patterns to suit my shape and preferences. I love the process of slashing and taping and tracing to get a perfectly fitted pattern. It's my inner geek coming out! 

Project Details
Pattern: McCalls 6460, size 16
Fabric: Printed cotton sateen from Spotlight & black cotton sateen from Clegs, lining from Clegs
Alterations:

• 4cm sway back adjustment
• Removed 3cm from back neckline at the centre 
• Removed 3cm total from front neckline
• Lowered bust darts by 2.5cm
• Folded out a dart from the front and back 8cm below the underarm - removed 2.5cm total
• Added kick pleat to the back
• Lengthened by 7cm

Next time I will add more length. I will also probably merge the body of NL6000 with the sleeves and top of the this pattern. The body and bust darts of NL6000 are perfect on me but I really like the raglan sleeve. I think this combination will result in a perfect pattern. 

I have a few more items to blog before I catch up. I'm not sure what is next on my sewing table. Probably more work clothes. I really need more work clothes. I've also got another pair of Tessuti Anita pants and a Tokyo jacket on the list. Oh, and I really need to get back to that little black jacket... 

L x

Sew: Tessuti Pia Dress in Black Linen

Well the sewjo has definitely returned. Yay for that! I just don't sew as much as I used to, due to a full wardrobe and other commitments. But I'm ok with that! Late on Thursday night I decided to sew a dress for Friday night drinks with the school mums. I had all the supplies for a Pia dress so it was a go! The fabric and pattern was cut out on Thursday night and I finished the dress at 5pm on Friday. The sewing part really only took about 2.5 hours on Friday afternoon, interrupted by school pick up and feeding the boys. Gosh they can eat!

 
When Tessuti released the Pia dress pattern I wasn't that keen on it. I decided to hold off until next Summer as I certainly had enough things to work on. I'm so glad I changed my mind. I love it! The pockets add interest to an otherwise simple style. I also really like the wide shoulders.

In terms of construction, things went together extremely easily and I really enjoyed the process. There is something soothing about sewing with linen. I did my own thing with the bias binding at the neckline and armholes. I finished one shoulder seam and then applied the neck binding before closing the other shoulder seam. The armhole binding is applied before sewing the side seams. This method is my preferred method for doing binding as I often have to fit the side seams once I've tried it on. Inevitably, I always end up taking the side seam in from the armhole to waist. I also eliminated the centre back seam. I didn't think it was necessary so I simply removed the 1.25cm seam allowance from the from the centre back and cut it on the fold.

Project Details
Pattern: Tessuti Pia Dress, size L
Fabric: Black linen from Clegs
Alterations: Removed centre back seam (cut on fold after removing seam allowance)

Apologies for some of the dodgy iPhone photos. My photographer only took from the waist up with the DSLR! I'll have to give him a lesson on photographing a dress. 

I wore it out on Friday night to the Brunswick Mess Hall for drinks with my Funkis clogs and Dinosaur Designs necklace. I then pulled it on again on Saturday morning, in a post-cocktail fog, and wore it down the road to the hairdressers and beauty salon. It worked really well belted with a red belt and a pair of red Saltwater sandals. Multi-talented dress. Perfect! That's my kind of dress.

Have you succumbed to the Pia dress? Do it!!

L x

Sew: Kwik Sew 3045 Polka Dot Jumper

Oh look! I made something!! I've actually made a few things in the last few days. So watch this space.

I spotted (!!) this jumper knit at Clegs one afternoon when I popped in to grab lining and thread. Isn't it always the way?! I couldn't leave these cute polka dots so I grabbed 2 metres with no plans at all. It didn't take me long to work out I wanted to make a raglan sleeve slouchy jumper. Kwik Sew 3045 looked like it would work a treat, so I grabbed it at Rathdowne's 50% off pattern sale last week. I also went back to Clegs and grabbed 50cm of the reverse print to use for the bindings. Best decision ever. I love them.

I made a few adjustments to the pattern to get the look I was after. I scooped out the neckline by 10cm at the front and 2.5cm at the back. In hindsight, this was probably a bit too much. I made a size L according to my measurements but ended up taking the side seams in an extra 1cm. Lastly, after popular demand on Instagram, I omitted the hem band and simply turned the hem up before using a twin needle to finish it.

Easy as! Now I'm in polka dot heaven. It's soft, cosy and slouchy, all in one.

Project Details
Pattern: Kwik Sew 3045, size L
Fabric: Polka Dot Interlock from Clegs
Alterations: Scooped neck out, took an extra 1cm of side seams, omitted bottom hem band, shortened sleeves by 2.5cm

In terms of the contrast bands, I used an 8cm wide strip that was 80% of the neckline. I originally used 85% but it was too slack. 80% worked perfectly. For the arm bands, I used the pattern piece but add 2.5cm to the length so they weren't so fitted. I also removed 2.5cm from the sleeve length. I could possibly have taken more off but they'll be fine.

I now just need a bit of cold and wet weather to be able to wear this jumper! I'm sure it is just around the corner...

L x

Sew: Burda 7077

I finally finished a garment! I must admit I've been pretty out of sorts with this whole new routine of work, childcare and school. After a few weeks, we're finally finding our groove again. It's all about organisation!

I spent a fair amount of time in January assessing my wardrobe and cleaning it out. I discovered I'm in dire need of some new work clothes. When I increased my working hours this year, I realised I really only had 3 decent dresses that I wear to work. A bit of a problem now that I'm working 4 days a week! 

I've had this pattern in my sights for quite some time. During one of my fitting classes last year at Tessuti, two ladies used this pattern as their starting point. They were completely different shapes and sizes but Vanessa made the pattern look amazing on both of them. I quickly purchased the pattern knowing that it would be a good way to use this black and white stripe sateen. 

The pattern is for a patterned sheath dress and coat. The dress has a yoke and paneled body. I made the dress using two different cotton sateens. In terms of sizing, the bust is a size 18 graded out to a size 20 at the hips. I'm not very happy with the fit of this dress. It is a touch firm across the hips and stomach which is not unusual for a sheath dress. The problem is that the waist is very loose and baggy. I tried to pinch out the excess but this starts to mess with the lines of the pattern and the fall of the fabric. I decided to leave it as is. Hopefully, with a little more running and toning, it will fall over my hips and be loose all over. I feel that this pattern would be best suited to a non-hippy figure. 

The instructions were easy to follow. No issues there. The pattern did not call for a vent at the back which is kind of odd as I'm not sure how you're supposed to walk or sit down without one. I used a standard black vent which I copied from New Look 6000. My go to sheath dress pattern. 

I did my standard sway back adjustment, removing 4 cm length from the centre back and 3 cm width from the back neckline. These worked perfectly. I just need to work out how to fix the fit of the front... 

If you follow me on Instagram you would know that I did the invisible zip a couple of times until I got it perfect. My attention to detail skills, which are extremely important for my day job, were really starting to bug me that night. I am now glad I spent the time to make it perfect. I'm pretty impressed with the stripe matching!

As much as I love the stripes with the black side panels, I do not like how the stripes highlight every fitting flaw. You can see every drag mark and crease. A solid or pattern would work much better. 

Although it was a relative success and very comfortable to wear, I'm not sure if I will be making this pattern again. I'm sure there are better sheath dress patterns out there that will be a much better way to spend my precious time. 

Project Details
Pattern: Burda 7077, view A, size 18-20
Fabric: Striped stretch cotton sateen from Tessuti with black stretch cotton sateen and black goldliner lining from Clegs
Alterations: 4cm sway back adjustment with 3cm removed from back neckline

So now I am on the hunt for the perfect sheath dress to kit out my working wardrobe. What's your best suggestion?

L x

Sew: Lady Skater Dress FIXED

Hello! We got home yesterday from the States after an amazing 3 week holiday. I'll post some photos soon. Before we left I sewed quite a few garments that I haven't blogged. I'll post them slowly over the next few weeks. You may remember my failed Lady Skater Dress that I was hoping to take with me. I was about to hack it apart but decided to attempt to fix it instead. I'm so glad I did because it is a fabulous travel dress! I took it in another 5cm on each side seam all the way from the sleeve hem all the way to the skirt hem. This fixed it beautifully. It still dips a bit at the back waist hem but it is so comfortable to wear. The fabric is delicious!

Project Details
Pattern: Lady Skater Dress
Fabric: Black bamboo knit from Clegs
Alterations: Shortened bodice by 5cm, shortened shoulder seam by 2.5cm, took an extra 5cm from each side seam

It is certainly not perfect but it is fine for long car trips and hanging around the house. The fabric is very lightweight and drapey making every seam very noticeable. I didn't bother hemming it.

The first photo is of me in the middle of Nevada. We drove from Yellowstone to Yosemite in two days. The second day was supposed to be more leisurely but we had to circumnavigate the massive fire in Yosemite instead of drive through the park from the eastern side. This added an extra half a day and about 400 extra miles. When we finally got to Yosemite we couldn't see anything for all the smoke! Thankfully it cleared up after a day or so. It is such an amazing place.

This next photo was taken looking out towards the Grand Tetons from our cabin at Flagg Ranch near Yellowstone. We spent a few days here exploring and catching up with Mr Sew Brunswick's brother and his family. They're based in Salt Lake City so it was lovely to spend some time with them. This was our view for our evening drinks. We even sat in wooden rocking chairs! It was perfect.




L x

Sew: Lady Skater Dress FAIL

In the interest of full disclosure, I am posting a recent sewing fail. It's not all peaches around here! Inspired by this dress, I pulled out my beautiful bamboo knit that I bought to make a drape drape top and Tessuti Fave tee. Big mistake! This pattern is not for really drapey fabric. It is designed for more stable knits. Once I started sewing, I knew it was not going to work. I even spent a bit of time trying to save it. I took the shoulder seams up an extra inch and removed two inches off the bodice length. It still hangs way below my natural waist and is close to showing off my bra. And there is something weird happening with the shoulders. They seem very wide.

Oh well, you live and you learn. I will definitely try this pattern again. The style is perfect for casual sunny days. I'm going to try it in one of the Liberty cotton jerseys which are quite stable and very pretty! I will cut the skirt off and attach it to some elastic for a simple skirt.

And I will have to get more of that bamboo knit from Clegs. It is luscious!

L x

Sew: New Look 6000 in Metallic Snake Print

Metallic snake print fabric? Yes, please!! Well that's what I said in Clegs one day when I went to buy a zip. The student in front of me was getting samples of a range of fabrics and one of them was a metallic gold and black snake print jacquard. When it was my turn, I bought my zip.... and 1.5m of this fabulous fabric.

 

 

I knew that I would make this pattern again. My first two dresses are in high rotation for my work wardrobe. The are comfortable and stylish. I made this version exactly the same as the others, including the swayback adjustment and grading the size 16 out to a size 18 at the waist and hips. I probably should have gone a smidge larger as this fabric has no give whatsoever and is a little tight. Lucky I've been allowed to start running again!

 



I love the pleated sleeves.

The fabric had a stripe in the print, so I carefully matched the stripe across the zip and at the side seam. The dress is lined with black goldliner lining.

Project Details
Pattern: New Look 6000, view A, size 16-18
Fabric: Snake print metallic jacquard and black goldliner from Clegs
Alterations: Size 16 at bust & shoulders graded to a size 18 at waist & hips, 4cm sway back adjustment, 3cm total removed from centre back neckline, lengthened 10cm (4cm hem)

I'm pretty happy with my new dress. I just love this style dress for work. I might have to make a few more!!

L x

Sew: Silk Geometric Laurel Dress

Meet my new Laurel dress. We're not exactly best friends but we'll get along just fine. But we'll never be besties.

 

 

This fabric was originally purchased for a Sencha blouse but I kept thinking about a dress. When the Laurel pattern was released I thought it would be a perfect match. Busy print with a simple style. As soon as I started sewing, I knew it wasn't going to be perfect. The fabric is too fluid for this style. It's not that bad and I still like the dress as a whole. I chose to line the dress rather than underline. 

 

Project Details
Pattern: Colette Patterns Laurel Dress, size 14
Fabric: Silk Geometric Print from The Fabric Store, red goldliner lining from Clegs
Alterations: 4cm sway back adjustment, removed 3cm total from back neckline, 5cm hem

 

 

 

Perfect for a few Sunday afternoon drinks with a lovely lady!

L x

Sew: Vogue 8787 for SewcieTea

 

Today I spent the afternoon sipping champagne, drinking coffee and eating lots of yummy things. It was SewcieTea!! And it was fabulous. Thanks the Melanie, aka Seamstress Poppykettle, for organising.

I had planned to purchase a new pair of nude pumps to complete this outfit but considering I am supposed to be wearing sneakers due to my broken foot, ballet flats was a good compromise. 

I did manage to finish my dress. With 2 whole days spare! I made Vogue 8787 again in a wool blend floral print I picked up at the August Sewing Meet Up at Tessuti. I made the cowl version this time with the capped sleeves again. The first version of this dress was not a success. The black ponti knit was too thick for the style and I made it too big. I went down a size in the bodice but kept the same size in the skirt and waistband.  Love the dress but do NOT like the sleeves. I cannot move my arms in this dress and had to drive to SewcieTea with my dress fully unzipped.

 

 

I will make this pattern again, without the sleeves, in a red wool crepe from the Alannah Hill outlet. I love the cowl neck and classic style of the dress.

 

I took a few photos of the dress on Florence as I really gain a lot from studying photos of dresses on the internet. Amanda's Adventures in Dressmaking in particular is a great resource. 

 

 

 

Project Details
Pattern: Vogue 8787, view D, size 16-18
Fabric: Wool blend floral remnant from Tessuti Melbourne & goldliner lining from Clegs
Alterations: Size 16 bodice graded to a size 18 waistband and skirt in addition to a swayback adjustment (2cm above and below the waistband)

I couldn't find the right shade of green for the lining and had to settle for an olive green instead of a bottle green. A minor detail, but it drives me nuts!

I didn't follow the instructions for finishing the armholes. The instructions have you stay stitch the armholes, then clip and turn in before hand stitching. I find this method tedious and not very durable. I opted to finish the armholes with bias binding instead.




The fabric is lovely and not something I would normally wear so I thought it would be a good occasion to use it. A high tea surrounded by lovely people who talk in pattern numbers was the perfect occasion!

A few happy snaps from SewcieTea.

My friend Siobhan & I

Lara (Thornberry), Anna (Blogless Anna), Rachel (Boo Dogg & Me) & I

 

The gorgeous spread at The Gables
 

Thanks again to Melanie for organising. I had a fabulous time and hope we can do it again soon.

L x