June 06, 2013

Sew: Sewaholic Cordova Jacket


 
Finally!! I have finished my Cordova jacket!! This project stalled numerous times. First it was too hot to contemplate sewing a jacket. Then I got side tracked by the Tessuti Gridlock competition followed by the Colette Laurel competition. Once back on track, I discovered that Mr H threw out the instructions, along with my camera cord, so after going through all the bins I had wait for the lovely Rachel and Tasia to send through a copy of the instructions. I also got stumped by the fit and then the fabric's inability to hold a press. It took me over a month to decide to topstitch all the seams. Finally, I was so annoyed with the instructions, or lack of, that I didn't even want to look at the damn thing. But I soldiered on and here we are. I was finally kicked into action by the fact my beloved Simplicity 2250 jacket has seen better days and I really needed a new work jacket.



My inner "brief" for this project was a fitted jacket in a black fabric with texture that I could wear to work as an office jacket. Not an outer jacket but one to wear all day over dresses. Lisa made a dress with this fabric at the end of last year and Trish (from Melbourne Tessuti) suggested it for this jacket. Trish also came to the party with the fabulous mushroom print silk for the lining! I love the combo of the textured black fabric and fun silk print.


I had a few issues with the fit. As usual the pattern was too wide across my back. I removed 2cm from the centre back by using a 2.5cm centre back seam instead of a 1.5cm seam. I noted on my numerous google searches that the fit is quite boxy and didn't look very flattering if it was too large. So I went down a size from my measurements and tapered the side seams in an extra 1cm at the armholes grading out to the standard seam allowance at the point the side seam joins the peplum. I also slimmed the sleeves considerably using my French curve. I could possibly have done with a sway back adjustment but life's too short!


There was one big issue with the pattern that numerous other reviews have noticed. The centre back at the hem did not extend the extra 4cm to allow the peplum facing to attach. After re-checking numerous times and attempting to put the peplum in the wrong way around (hoping that would solve the problem), I emailed people who had also made it and even emailed Sewaholic. Their helpful advice was to ensure I'd followed the pattern. Thanks for that advice! Everything was as per the pattern. It just didn't fit as instructed. I fixed this issue by cutting an extra section of facing for the centre back to bridge the gap. Then simply turning the whole facing up and hand stitching in place before hemming the lining.

Now the instructions for this jacket are brief, a little too brief. My personal opinion is that a tailored jacket's instructions should not fit on one single side of paper. If you were new to sewing you would probably struggle with the lack of detailed instructions. I've been sewing for years and I struggled with them. I ended up not using them and doing my own thing as attempting to use them was annoying me too much.


I took heaps of detail shots for those, who like me, like to study photos of other people's projects.



 
 








I really recommend using a sturdy fabric for this pattern. It provides a more structured look and holds up to all those panels.

Project Details
Pattern: Sewaholic Cordova, view B, size 16
Fabric: When Night Rings a polyamide/polyester blend from Tessuti
Lining: Silk mushroom print from Tessuti
Alterations: Removed 1cm from centre back seam and 1cm from armhole grading back to standard seam allowance at peplum, slimmed sleeves by up to 2cm, inserted fleece sleeve heads



All the issues aside, I can't wait to wear this jacket properly. It's a little bit different than a normal blazer type jacket with it's OTT sleeves and exposed zip. I think me and this Cordova jacket are going to get along just fine, from now on...


Rocking it!!

L x

30 comments:

  1. Oh Leith, I absolutely LOVE it!!! You've done such a beautiful job, as usual. The style is great on you and I'm sure it will be a loyal piece of your work wardrobe for a long time.

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  2. I know that it's taken a while, but you ARE absolutely ROCKING that jacket! So many gorgeous details, and it looks stunning on you. Looking forward to seeing it in real life one day. Beautiful construction and fit.

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  3. such beautiful:) you look very good:) and jacket so well maded, as usual.

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  4. Wow Leith, that is a stunning jacket!! All the effort (and very helpful review) has been worth it as the result is just gorgeous on you.

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  5. Gorgeous jacket, and your fabric is just perfect. Thanks for the review too, I'm about to make this as soon as I get a zipper although the heavy cotton I had planned to use seems a bit boring compared to your lovely fabric

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  6. Va va voom! You look hot! It is perfect - well worth the effort and the wait.

    I love those sunglasses too - are they new? They really suit you!

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    1. They are new. And they're Prada!! I love them.

      Ok, I've shown mine. Now where's your Cordova?!

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  7. Very nice work. You have done a fantastic job there. It looks great. I love how the puffed Victorian sleeve detail contrasts with the modern zip fastening. And that jacket requires a perfect job on the zip - which you have really pulled off. I hate zips with a passion as it's a fluke for me to get them looking as perfect as that!

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  8. Thank you for a really helpful review. I have this pattern but haven't cut it out yet, sounds like a muslin will be in order. I have a pant weight wool in mind, do you think it will hold up? I am thinking of changing the front to omit the zip and maybe put on buttons, will have to see how I go. Perhaps with the long weekend I will give it a go. Btw, next time you are in Brisbane, we'll have to catch up for a drink :)

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  9. You look amazing! I love your fabrics, I'll have to member to use a heavy fabric when I get round to making mine

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  10. You look HOT. I love the jacket and the dress. You have finished the jacket beautifully, it looks very professional, well done. I had issues with the Thurlow Shorts pattern. Even the local sewing teacher had trouble working it out!

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  11. Congratulations!!! I am glad you were able to finish it! I think it was worth the trouble because it came out GORGEOUS!!!

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  12. I love how fitted you've made this jacket - so flattering! It has a lot of personality and will go with everything. Fun lining too!

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  13. Looks great - love the photos

    Pattern sounds like it needs work....

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  14. Leith, you are totally ROCKING that jacket! Was definitely worth pushing through all your issues!!! Love those beautiful looking pleats on the sleeve!!!

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  15. It looks great! I stalled out on this pattern when it came to drafting a lining... got any tips?

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  16. what a great jacket and love the fabric choice.

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  17. Worth the wait, looks fantastic!

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  18. Your jacket looks amazing!! You always seems to pick the right fabric for your garments!! You are my sewing inspiration :)

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  19. Great looking jacket. You did a marvelous job on it. Bet it was worth all the work!

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  20. WOW!! This looks really fantastic!! You wouldn't know you had any trouble with it at all. I have the Cordova on lined up to start sewing soon. I will keep an eye out for all the things you mentioned.

    Keep ROCKING that jacket. LOVE it.

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  21. Fabulous!!! That is one awesome work jacket! Thank you very much for the honest pattern review - it looks amazing, lovely fabrics!!

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  22. Love it, awesome work, you would never know you had a few pattern problems. Perfect fabric for it.

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  23. Thanks for all the detail shots - I love examining the up close details of what people have sewn too; it really helps me to understand whether I like a pattern or not. Your jacket really looks great in both the close ups and as part of an outfit, and it's making me reconsider my anti-black clothes stance!

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  24. Thanks for the review of the pattern. I was hoping to try this one day. Looks fantastic!

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  25. I am glad your Cordova came out so Pretty!!! and you were able to figure it out.

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  26. To top stitch or not to top stitch? It's a toughie, but I definitely think top stitching was the right way to go! I LOVE all the close up shots. The clean lines of it suits you fabulously - very nice!!

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  27. Beautiful jacket. The mushroom lining made me stop and smile :)

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