June 04, 2012

Sew: Black Wool Clover Pants

The lovely Clover pattern again. This is my third pair and I'm starting to perfect the fit. I'm thinking of a fourth in a rich red or cobalt blue...

Project Details
Pattern: Colette Patterns Clover
Fabric: Black wool stretch suiting from The Fabric Store

I made the same adjustments as before, starting with a size 16 and taking the side seams in 3cm. I straightened the side seam curve from the top of the thigh to the waistband and took the inseam in another 1cm due to the stretch in this fabric. I also did a lower flat tummy adjustment to remove excess fabric in the groin area. For this pair I used a polka dot cotton for the waistband facing to avoid the wool itching and to add some stability to the waist band.

I also sewed some of this funny looking stabilising stuff into the top of the waistband. Sorry I have no idea of its technical term. I bought it from Clegs many years ago. My previous pairs of Clovers stretch with wear and the waistband turns down. I found this in my stash and decided to try it out. It certainly doesn't give (at all...) so those extra macarons last week were certainly acknowledged but it served its purpose.

I do still find that the crotch (particularly the groin) of the Clovers is a bit baggy, especially after wear. Any suggestions?

L x


  1. Mine do that too in the crotch area, but I'm not sure how to fix it. This pair looks amazing on you - the fit is perfect and they are very flattering.

  2. You really look like you're starting to perfect the fit. I remember I had this same fitting problem with my Burda trousers. My teacher had me take in the crotch seam and the inseam on the front piece only. Leave the back seam allowance line in the original position. I also remember her saying this can happen when you have lost weight and have gone down a size.

  3. That interfacing is called Vilene Bias tape . It is cut on the bias and the stitching line stops things stretching out. It is fantastic to use in knits and jerseys or use it where you would stay stitch. If you cut your jersey T shirt out apply it to the neckline/shoulder/armscye as soon as you cut it out to stop the neckline stretching. You are lucky it's really hard to find in the US. I am from the UK and I have to order online but it is invaluable in so many applications.


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